We love Champagne, and so do you, our loyal readers. We’re constantly on the lookout for scrappy up-and-comers and surprising values, but sometimes you want to reach for the stars and pull out a bottle of wine that is fully draped in the prestige, tradition, and elegance of one of the most accomplished boutique houses in Champagne: Billecart-Salmon. And so, on this first Friday of March, we have a mesmerizing, show-stopping masterpiece of sparkling wine. The 2009 “Cuvée Louis Salmon” is the penultimate expression of Billecart’s long history of pursuing perfection in Champagne. A blend of mostly older-vine fruit from top parcels in three of the most lauded Grand Crus of the Côte de Blancs, this gloriously luxurious wine spent a full 12 years aging on the lees and another three post-disgorgement to put it into an impeccable window of pure enjoyment. It is the bottle to reach for when you absolutely need to impress, even if the one to impress is yourself. The production is tiny, and our allocation is miniscule, so act fast to grab a few of these precious bottles.
Billecart-Salmon doesn’t have the global reach of Veuve-Clicquot or Möet-Chandon, brands that are ubiquitous to every liquor store shelf everywhere. Nor does it have the movie star, mega yacht appeal of Dom Pérignon or Roederer’s Cristal, but that’s fine by them. This historic Champagne house has always been more concerned with quality and tradition than with hype and celebrity endorsements. Of course they do have their famous fans who like to be “in the know” (looking at you, Bono) but for the most part this house specializes in exquisitely balanced, ethereal wines that emphasize finesse and complexity over flashy opulence. In other words, they make wines for true connoisseurs.
The location of their winery and cellars says it all: While most of the top houses in Champagne are located in the commercial heart of Reims, and the rest like to be near the main drag of Épernay, Billecart is located in Äy, surrounded by vineyards instead of tourists. Their selection of wines includes a classic NV Brut, a.k.a. the “black label,” and their iconic Brut Rosé, whose color mirrors the family name almost perfectly. But their most limited, most exceptional cuvées are named for the founding family members: Nicolas François, Élisabeth Salmon, and Louis Salmon. They are all unique and fantastic, but for our money, the one that is most constantly jaw-dropping in its elegance is the Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs “Cuvée Louis Salmon.”
Sourced from what are generally considered the best Grand Crus for Chardonnay in Champagne—Cramant, Chouilly, and Mesnil-sur-Oger—this towering display of winemaking excellence is able to perfectly walk the line between a creamy, luxurious texture and a super fine, chiseled, mineral-laden finish. The 2009 vintage is an especially seductive effort, with the generally warm and sunny vintage providing extra depth and charm. After 12 years(!) of aging in the bottle on the fine lees, and an additional three years of age post disgorgement, this bottle of pure bliss is ready to rock as soon as you pop the cork (gently, please). Serve cool, not cold, in either an all-purpose stem or a Burgundy glass, if you want to emphasize the aromatics and vinous nature, and you’ll immediately notice a persistent, impeccable perlage. Aromas of preserved lemon, yellow apple, marzipan, brioche, cardamom, white pepper, and citrus blossoms all lead to a wonderfully precise, almost impossibly elegant mouth feel. It’s an experience that will not soon be forgotten, and fair warning that it may be tough to go back to the “usual” bubbles, but hey, a little taste of Champagne heaven is worth it!
