In the pecking order of the great Pinot villages of the Côte de Nuits, it is the namesake, “Nuits-Saint-Georges,” that has generally been given the short end of the stick, falling behind Vosne-Romanée, Chambolle-Musigny, and Gevrey-Chambertin in the eyes of the Burgundy movers and shakers for many decades. Indeed it has actually been many centuries, because the Cistern monks that first mapped these vineyards a millennium ago failed to award it any Grand Cru to eventually hyphenate its name! But at their best these wines go toe to toe with their siblings that lie just a kilometer or two away. Philippe Gavignet is easily among the top tier of producers here, crafting wines that are soulful, terroir specific love stories to Pinot Noir. His “Vieilles Vignes” bottling, from two tiny parcels of 60 to 100 year old vines, is a perfect example of the deep complexity, and value in Nuits. I can think of no better cellar worthy Burgundy that is still sub $100.
Domaine Philippe Gavignet is currently run by its fourth generation vigneron and winemaker, Philippe Gavignet, along with his son, Benoit. Phillippe has been part of the family business since 1979 but took the helm in 1992 when his father, Michael, retired. The estate is comprised of twelve hectares spread over thirteen different appellations. The Gavignet family farms the vineyards Lutte Raisonnée, which translates to “reasoned fight,” and entails enriching the biodiversity of the land while avoiding non-organic approaches unless an emergency arrives. Along with their nurturing farming-methods, Philippe’s traditional winemaking, maturity of the vines and the ripe, but balanced 2022 vintage results in a distinct representation of terroir, ideal balance, ample purity and concentration in the glass.
Domaine Philippe Gavignet’s Vieilles Vignes is derived from two special lieux-dit: “Belle Croix”, which is adjacent to the Premier Cru, Pruliers, as well as the “Aux Allots,” lieu-dit, which lies on the Vosne-Romanée side of Nuits-St-Georges and runs along Vosne Premier Cru vineyards. The vines, planted between 1954 and 1930 (yes, they are truly old!), are hand-harvested then macerated for 8-9 days and fermented for 18 days in stainless steel tanks. The wine is then aged for 15-16 months in French oak barrels, about a quarter of which is new. The wine is bottled unfined and unfiltered, which reveals a wine of unadulterated purity, immense concentration, the ideal structural framework and divine Burgundian perfume.
This 2022 from Philippe Gavignet displays a dark ruby red core with garnet reflections on the rim. Once the wine receives enough air, the nose reveals a phenomenal expression of place with complex aromas of dried plum, dark raspberry, a touch of pomegranate and black cherry intertwined with savory aromatics of black mushroom, black tea, forest floor, and a subtle hint of baking spice. The palate is medium-plus in body with beautiful texture and freshness. Fruits confirm the nose and are enveloped in perfect structure, soft tannins and an essence that is simultaneously reminiscent of Vosne-Romanée and Nuits-St-Georges at its best. We enjoyed this wine a few weeks back and were charmed by its youthful, supple expression; however, its true beauty will get better with a few years in the cellar and peak between 2028 and 2035. For those of you who are amassing a cellar of age-worthy, world-class wines, this is an offer not to miss.
