The still active volcano of Vesuvio (Vesuvius) has been planted to grape vines for thousands of years, despite the obvious threat looming far beneath the surface. The vineyard sources for Olivella’s “Vipt” come from the slopes of Monte Somma, geologically the oldest part of Vesuvius, and range in altitude from 900 to 1,800 feet of elevation. The local grape, Piedirosso (“red feet”) was named by none other than Roman writer Pliny the Elder in his Naturalis Historia, referring to the red stalks of the variety’s grape bunches. Although there’s no known genetic connection, Piedirosso often feels like a less-intense version of Aglianico: there’s dark berry fruit, spice, tannin, and a hint of smoke. Typically blended with Aglianico in the red version of Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio, this is a relatively rare “varietal” version.

“Vipt” is a play on Neapolitan dialect for “to drink,” and more specifically, to drink with pleasure. Winemaking is fully geared toward this playful pun: The fruit is hand harvested in early October, fully de-stemmed, and gently pressed into steel tanks for fermentation and then aging for an additional 10 months in those same tanks before bottling. With a focus is on freshness and purity of fruit in order to “drink with pleasure!”, the 2022 “Vipt” displays a translucent ruby core moving to garnet and pink at the rim, with a tangle of sweet, spicy, and savory that is quintessentially Campanian. There’s little doubt you’re drinking a volcanic red, as notes of ash and smoke mingle with wild berries, black and red plums, pomegranate, violet, flint, tar, and charred meat. The acidity is brisk and the tannins are sandy but not aggressive–a perfect wine for a spicy Neapolitan pizza!