A few miles northwest, and on the opposite side of the Tanaro river from the famous regions of Barolo and Barbaresco, Roero is a wine region in Piedmont that, like Rodney Dangerfield “gets no respect.” But that is changing, and much of the renewed interest here is due to talented young winemakers/innovators like Luca Faccenda and Carolina
Roggero. They founded this tiny estate in 2010, with the sole purpose of focusing attention on Roero and Roero alone. Arneis, the local white grape, has recently been promoted by some top Barolo and Barbaresco producers who have purchased vineyards in the area, but for Luca and Carolina this is no afterthought white wine. That commitment and passion shines through in every sip!
Where It Grows:
The vineyards of Roero sit mostly on steep hills that cascade down towards the Tanaro
river, and those of Valfaccenda specifically are around the village of Canale which, for
reference, is less than five miles northwest of Barbaresco. Though elevations are similar to their more famous neighbors, the hills here tend to be much steeper, and the soil much sandier. The cantina (aka winery) is in the town of Canale itself, which is where you’ll find Luca and Carolina when they’re not in the vineyards.
How It's Made:
Their “entry level” Arneis is not as straightforward as it appears. That is because
they make three different passes (or harvests) and ferment these three passes separately before blending. One pass, about 30% of the wine, was kept in contact with the skins for seven days, while the other two were direct pressed. 40% of the wine is aged in neutral oak barrels, while the remaining ages in concrete and steel tanks. The result is wine with added texture and depth, but balanced perfectly by freshness and acidity.
What It Tastes Like:
The partial skin contact adds a bit of weight to the wine, and also some aromatic pizzazz with uncommon notes of peach pit and dried herbs. That said, the fresh, orchard fruits, Meyer lemon, and white flowers are all distinctly Arneis, and the bright, saline finish confirms the sandy terroir of the vines. Serve it cool, in an all-purpose stem, alongside a classic seafood risotto or with rich, creamy pasta dishes and you’ll be sure to wow any and all dinner companions.