Every wine region has its forgotten corners where ancient vines survive because nobody bothered to rip them out. In Valdejalón, tucked between better-known Calatayud and Campo de Borja, Fernando Mora MW found his treasure trove: Garnacha vines up to 98 years old, growing on north-facing slopes rich in schist and limestone at 350-700 meters elevation.
Fernando's path here wasn't typical. After earning his Master of Wine with a thesis on Campo de Borja Garnacha, he could have gone anywhere. Instead, he partnered with Francisco Latasa and Mario López to create Frontonio—named for Saint Frontonio, Épila's patron saint who, legend says, was beheaded by Romans but whose head miraculously swam upstream. Like their namesake, Frontonio swims against every current in Spanish wine.
They started in a literal garage (hence their "Garage Winery" nickname), making single-vineyard Garnachas from forlorn old plots. The region was so overlooked that Frontonio became—and remains—the ONLY producer bottling wine under the Valdejalón designation. Think about that: an entire wine region with one winery.
The vineyards tell the story. Mediterranean climate with massive day-night temperature swings. Rainfall so low the young vines would die—but these ancient ones have roots that go down forever. The schist provides minerality, the limestone adds freshness, the altitude preserves acidity. It's the same formula that makes Comando G or Raúl Pérez's Garnachas so magical, except nobody knew to look here.
The winemaking honors the fruit's purity. Foot-trodden like it's 1920, native yeasts, and minimal intervention. Fernando's MW training didn't make him more technical—it made him understand why the old ways work. His Garnacha is elegant, mineral-driven, almost Pinot-like in its transparency.
WHY YOU'LL LOVE IT
The López de Heredia Endorsement: When Spain's high priestess of traditional wine personally recommends someone, it's like getting knighted. Her letter to the importer wasn't just a recommendation—it was a coronation.
98-Year-Old Vines at Comando G Prices: Daniel Landi's similar project in Gredos produces $200+ bottles. Fernando's working with equally old vines in equally forgotten places, but charging $33, with 94+ points from The Wine Advocate. This pricing won't last once America discovers Frontonio.
The Only Game in Town: Frontonio isn't just the best producer in Valdejalón—they're the ONLY producer.
MW Precision, Garage Soul: Fernando's one of Spain's few Masters of Wine, but he makes wine in a garage, foot-treads his grapes, and named his winery after a beheaded saint. This combination of expertise and irreverence creates magic.
HOW TO SERVE IT
Serve at 58-60°F—slightly cool to highlight the wine's freshness and minerality. Burgundy bowls are a must.
Drink now through 2031. These old vines produce wines with surprising aging potential, but the joy is in their current vibrancy.
Pair with smoked chicken, or Spanish chorizo and iberico ham as an aperitif. The wine's elegance and moderate alcohol make it incredibly versatile. Also delightful slightly chilled on a warm day.
