Just a couple of years ago it was fairly routine for us to feature at least a dozen “ready to drink” red Burgundy values throughout the year. As most Pinotphiles know, Burgundy can be one of the most finicky wines as far as drinking windows go–catching a bottle in its prime is a true pleasure–so finding bottles with the age needed to “open up,” is ideal. Sadly though, it has become extremely difficult to source these gems. The bottles from the early teens are almost gone (and older than that is basically impossible), while the later 2010s don’t always cooperate. That’s why I get super excited when a bottle hits the tasting table and is singing as soon as it is poured into a glass, which is precisely what happened with today’s firing on all cylinders beauty from Vincent Legou. With seven plus years of age it has that sublime interplay of sappy red fruits, damp earth, and dried flowers that makes all Burgundy lovers drool uncontrollably. Oh, and the price is downright pedestrian. I have no idea when we’ll see another deal like this, so grab as much as you can!
Vincent Legou is one of those lucky (at least by my standards) few who grew up in the vines and cellars of the Côte de Nuits. His family has been in the grape farming and winemaking business for generations, and in 2008 he inherited the small estate that his parents had run for years. Prior to that he worked straight out of school at several neighboring estates, including one that you may have heard of: Domaine de la Romanée Conti. Working the vines and in the cellar with Aubert de Villaine and his world class team was pivotal, and he has put everything he learned into practice at his small but very well positioned domaine.
That starts with farming. DRC is a pioneer in organic and biodynamic farming, and Vincent has been certified organic since 2014. His approach is not dogmatic; he uses some biodynamic treatments as necessary, but also holds off if not needed. In the cellar he is also a minimalist, using native yeast, minimal sulfur, and mostly used, light toast barrels. The harvest is manual, and if stems are perfectly ripe they are included. After a cold maceration and natural fermentation, the wine is racked into barrels (in this case about 30% is new) for 10 to 12 months before bottling without fining or filtration.
As advertised, this 2017 is pretty much ready to rock right after you pull the cork, but that said a quick 20-30 minute decant will ensure that the full spectrum of aromas and flavors is on display. The nose leads with ripe cherries, crushed strawberries, and kirsch while savory notes of dried rose petals, allspice, clove, mushroom powder, black tea, and damp earth follow close behind. The palate confirms the nose with that wonderful, perfectly balanced interplay of fruits, flowers, and earth. Serve it at cellar temperature in large Burgundy stems with some braised meat and/or mushroom dishes and you will be instantly transported to a rustic bistro in the hills outside Dijon, oh, and our price is about the same as it would be there too!
