Mount Etna has become an indispensable terroir in the world of fine wine. Perched nearly a mile above sea level, the indigenous Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio varieties grow on the slopes of an active volcano. This is truly heroic viticulture: steep vineyards to work, in the shadow of a mountain that last erupted just this summer. 

Blasted by sun during the day, then experiencing steep drops in temperature at night, the vines produce fruit of intense concentration with racy structure. Because of the unique soils here, phylloxera never got quite the same foothold it did in other regions: Many of the Calabretta family's vines remain own-rooted. The average age of their vineyards is now over 80 years old, which lends further depth and complexity to their wines.

Gaetano Calabretta founded the business in the early 1920s, shifting the family's focus from a mixed agricultural system to viticulture alone. For most of the 20th century, the Calabretta wines were sold in barrels to restaurant owners and private customers, with some coming from as far away as Piedmont to reserve their coveted stash. The Calabrettas actually didn't bottle the wine for sale until 1997, as they saw Etna changing rapidly around them and sought to preserve the old ways. They still do things the way they did a century ago. No synthetic pesticide has ever been sprayed in their vines, every bit of work is done by hand, and winemaking is extremely hands-off in the cellar, with totally spontaneous ferments and no fining. Most importantly, like the Barolos of yesteryear (the ones we still enjoy today at 60+ years of age), they age their "Vigne Vecchie" for as long as they feel necessary in massive old oak casks, sometimes up to seven years. 

The 2016 “Vigne Vecchie” pours a deep ruby with bricking at the edges, a dead ringer for Barolo to the eye. The nose is reminiscent of Barolo too, with tar and cedar notes. But the fruit profile leans darker, with dried black cherries and blackberry liqueur, a dried plum element, backed by hallmark black pepper and volcanic earth. What must have once been very big tannins indeed are just now resolving. Perfect alongside a hearty meal now, this undeniably has the stuffing to go for years and years.

WHY YOU'LL LOVE IT

Patience: While everyone else rushes young Etna to market, Calabretta ages this wine 6-7 years in massive Slavonian botti, then holds it in bottle until it's actually ready. You're drinking wine with the texture and complexity that only comes with time. Think of it as somewhere between Taurasi and Barolo, with a dash of Burgundian lift.

Own-Rooted Ancient Vines: These 80+ year old vines never saw phylloxera. They're anchored to their volcanic soils through their original roots, creating concentration and complexity that is simply not present in young plantings.

The Last Traditionalist: In an Etna increasingly dominated by consultants and modern techniques, Calabretta farms like it's 1920. No chemicals, hand harvesting, native ferments. This is what Etna tasted like in the 19th century, in the best way.

A Price Stuck In Time: Somehow, while new Etna producers charge $75+ for current releases, Calabretta offers eight-year-old wine from ancient vines for $36. 

HOW TO SERVE IT

• Serve at 58-62°F in large Burgundy stems, with a gentle and quick decant.

• Drink now through 2040. Nerello Mascalese aged this way has the structure of great Nebbiolo. We've tasted Calabrettas from the early 2000s that are still singing.

• Great pairing with Sicilian classics like grilled swordfish, Scacciata, or wild boar ragù with porcinis.