When you talk about special terroirs in wine, you must talk about Mount Etna. Here, the indigenous Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio varieties grow on the slopes of an active and ancient volcano. This is truly heroic viticulture; Etna erupted literally three months ago. But the results are worth it. Blasted by sun during the day, then experiencing steep drops in temperature at night, the vines produce fruit of intense concentration with racy structure.

Mount Etna might also be the most exciting location in Italian wine right now. A flood of young winemakers and outside investment have catapulted Etna’s wines to the top of the cognoscenti’s “must-have” lists, right alongside the best of Piedmont, Tuscany, and the Veneto. Tenuta Fessina is one of the leaders of the charge. Silvia Maestrelli founded Fessina in 2007, in her words bringing “feminine energy” to the ruggedly “masculine” viticultural landscape here. That energy is undeniable in “Erse,” named for the Greek goddess of dew, and simply one of the most forthrightly beautiful bottles of Etna Rosso we’ve ever encountered. 90% Nerello Mascalese, 8% Nerello Capuccio, and 2% white varieties, it’s gently destemmed then given a short maceration of 6 to 9 days. Fermented and aged entirely in stainless steel, all the better to appreciate its unadorned beauty.

Why You’ll Love It

• Hailing from three villages – Rovitello at 2,200ft elevation and Milo and Biancovilla at 3,280ft – “Erse” displays an elegance we don’t often encounter in Sicily, especially at this price point. Most producers go for impact and extraction for the entry-level bottlings, but Fessina’s captures all the purity we prize in higher-end Etna Rossos.

• “Erse” is almost Burgundian on the nose, with a whirl of sour cherries, orange peel, pomegranate, hibiscus, and petrichor.

• The palate pulses with energy, emphasizing bright acidity and fine-grained tannins. It leans into the red fruits and florals, with an added sense of smoky depth.

• You can easily spend a night digging into all of “Erse’s” ethereal complexity, but it’s also fantastically easy-going. Be it a quiet night in or an afternoon barbecue, Fessina’s got you covered.

How To Serve It

• Serve slightly chilled to around 60 degrees to emphasize the refreshing qualities.

• Definitely use a Burgundy bowl. You’ll want to revel in every corner of the beautiful aromatics.

• “Erse” will be very versatile at the table, but we can’t suggest a more perfect pairing than classic Sicilian caponata, redolent with basil, pine nuts, and golden raisins.