Crisp, mineral, and sneakily powerful: If you think of Italian whitewine only as simple and “quaffable,” this may change your mind.

Where It Grows:

Ciavolich maintains two small (one-hectare) vineyards of Pecorino: one at their farm in Loreto Aprutino (the most famous wine town in Abruzzo) and the other in Pianella. Both vineyard estates are in the foothills above Pescara, about 20 kilometers inland from the Adriatic Sea. Soils are described as “loamy clay,” with elevations of about 250 meters.

Who Made It:

The Ciavolich family has a very long history in the Abruzzo region, having first emigrated from Bulgaria in 1560. The family’s first wine cellar, constructed in the town of Miglianico in 1853, now serves as a visitor center and museum. Since 2004, the estate has been run by Chiara Ciavolich and her husband, Gianluca, who farm a total of 40 hectares of vineyards across two vineyard properties in theprovince of Pescara.

What It Tastes Like:

There is a noticeably savory, almost saline quality to this wine that sets it apart: The fruit component includes green apple and fig notes, which are followed by hints of herbs (sage; thyme), wet stones, and a slight touch of cream and warm spice from the oak aging. It is medium, leaning toward medium-plus, in body, with mouthwatering acidity and a firm mineral backbone. Pair with roast chicken or poached halibut.