In Champagne, where grandes marques often chase volume and consistency, Bollinger remains the magnificent, recalcitrant loner. This is a house that hand-riddles EVERY vintage bottle, ferments in ancient oak barrels maintained by their last remaining cooper, and stores reserve wines in magnums that must be opened by hand—a month-long process that surely infuriates their bankers. Tasting the wines makes it clear though: some things can't be rushed or mechanized.

The 2016 "B16" takes a completely different approach. Where TX20 showcases one village's character, B16 explores the late-ripening terroirs across the Montagne de Reims, blending 73% Pinot Noir with 27% Chardonnay for elegance. The 2016 vintage was a rollercoaster—cold, wet spring with damaging frosts, followed by a miracle August that delivered perfect ripening conditions. After seven years on the lees (under cork, hand-riddled like all Bollinger vintages), it emerged as a study in finesse: hawthorn, acacia honey, bergamot, and sweet almonds.