Kolonics’s 2021 Hárslevelű “Nimrod” is a rare gem from an extinct volcano rising out of Hungary’s western plains. Like Mosel or Chablis, Somló is tiny, but its basalt-rich soils turn native varieties like Hárslevelű into wines with a serious, mineral-driven punch.
Atop a lone mountain shaped by ancient lava flows, Kolonics farms nine hectares of native varieties with organic rigor, tending old vines by hand and fermenting in huge, historic barrels tucked deep into their cellar that's carved into the mountain itself. Each barrel is named for Hungarian historical figures, and if it passes Kolonic's rigorous standards, that barrel is bottled and released with it's own name. “Nimrod” is textbook Somló, loaded with honeyed orchard fruit, smoky earth, and searing acidity.
Why You'll Love It:
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Terroir purity and clarity in a bottle. This is a one-off from a single barrel and Kolonics’s strict approach: organic farming, minimal sulfur, wild yeast, ancient oak.
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This wine sings with relentless precision and volcanic clarity. Excellent right now and will only get better with time.
- Not your everyday white wine. The palate is simultaneously taut and textured, with citrus, orchard fruit, sea spray, and pure stony grip.
How To Serve it: