Grown on granite and aged on its lees (sur lie) to impart some creaminess to the texture, this classic expression of Muscadet is a crash course in minerality.

The Sèvre et Maine growing zone—named for two tributaries of the Loire that feed into it just before it empties into the Atlantic—is known for its patchwork of soil types. It’s a mix of igneous and metamorphic rock, with thin topsoils over subsoils that vary from granite to schist to gneiss.

Domaine des Trois Toits was built on the foundation of an ancient abbey from the 17th century. The cave is built entirely of stone and its roof is marked by three peaks—thus its name: Trois Toits, or “three roofs.” Longtime proprietor Hubert Rousseau retired after 25 years at the helm, passing the reins to Vincent Barbier and Cécile Perraud, who purchased the estate in 2019.

Grapes are pressed and the juice is placed in underground tanks. Alcoholic fermentation proceeds at low temperatures for three to five weeks. The finished wine is left in contact with its “fine lees” (spent yeasts) for many months, during which time the liquid is occasionally stirred (bâtonnage). The result is a fresh, mineral-driven wine with slight effervescence when first opened.

Melon de Bourgogne, like its cousin, Chardonnay, is delicately aromatic and heavily influenced by its place of origin. This wine was aged sur lie (“on the lees”), wherein spent yeasts (lees) were left in the juice after fermentation; this adds texture and lactic, bread-dough aromas. Pale straw-gold with bright aromas of tart green apple, citrus pith, Anjou pear, cream, wet stones, and brine.