Beaujolais is a magnet for elite winemaking talent, a treasure trove of heirloom vineyards, and one of the world’s epicenters for red-wine value, but when “Cuvée Les Balmes” is the center of discussion, it becomes the incomparable, Black Friday-equivalent deal of the year. In fact, for two consecutive vintages, this cuvée has occupied the highest throne of value Burgundy.
It’s no fluke, either: This certifiable classic Gamay hails from low-yielding, 100-year-old vines that are harvested by hand before spontaneous fermentation, maturation in old French barrels, and bottling without fining/filtration. If Domaine Les Gryphées’ chart-busting Burgundy value doesn’t already have you lurching towards checkout, I’m at a loss for words because their specialty (aside from delivering mouthwatering, gorgeously pure reds) is rediscovering sites with old raw material and restoring them to their former glory. If your lifeblood is classic French wine that provides an unmistakable sense of place and typicity alongside unabashed enjoyment, then here you go—this is the peak value of ultra-fine, polished, thirst-quenching Beaujolais.
Stationed in Moulin-à-Vent, the father-son team of Pierre and Guillaume Durdilly currently farm about 35 acres of vineyards throughout the sprawling region of Beaujolais. The name of the domaine, “Les Gryphées,” is derived from the ancient marine fossils (gryphées) found in some of their vineyards, where the family first started crafting estate-bottled wines in the 1970s. What stands out about these wines is their incredible detail and purity—these truly are wines that are “grown” rather than made, with fermentations carried out in stainless steel or cement and aging done in large, neutral oak foudres. It’s really all about viticulture for these guys, who plant beneficial herbs between the vine rows to combat erosion and pests and eschew chemical treatments in favor of organic ones. From start to finish, they ooze authenticity.
“Cuvée des Balmes” hails from a small, steep plot home to century-old Gamay vines that burrow deep into clay-limestone and the region’s signature pierres dorées soils, “golden stones” that date back tens of millions of years. As mentioned, all work is über-traditional: hand-harvesting, fermentation via ambient yeasts, aging in old foudres, and bottling without removing anything. In the glass, the 2023 reveals a deep and reflective ruby core mixed with soft purple hues. Lush, almost intoxicating, aromas of black cherry, ripe strawberry, wild raspberry, spiced plum, and blueberry soar out of the glass and that generosity of fruit carries over onto the deeply layered palate. Keep swirling the glass and savory goodness shines through the frontline of plush berries in the form of grape stem, candied violets, crushed stones, and underbrush. It’s always worth mentioning that Durdilly expertly avoids the blowsy, chunky styles that many producers have fallen victim to in recent vintages—the balance and perfume in their wines is always impeccable. Flash decant before serving in Burgundy stems at 55-60 degrees and let the good times roll.
