Sancerre is not just Sauvignon Blanc. We know this. But the Pinot Noirs of Sancerre still only account for a little over 10% of the region’s production, so they’re much rarer birds. Historically, Sancerre Rouge has sort of skulked around in the shadow of red Burgundy, but increasingly, it’s taking a star turn of its own. Why shouldn’t it?

We’re talking about a limestone-rich terroir and a cool climate (i.e. conditions much like those in Burgundy), so it should come as no surprise that Sancerre Rouge can rival great red Burgundy. Having offered some Pinot Noir stunners from Sancerre greats like Domaine Vacheron and Lucien Crochet, we were thrilled to discover the wines of the minuscule Domaine Philippe Auchère. Only a small amount of this soulful organic red made it to the US, and we were given first access, so it’s effectively a SommSelect exclusive for the moment! This is finessed, terroir-driven, cool-climate Pinot Noir at its hand-crafted best. Enjoy while it lasts.

BONUS: For those who’d like to take the full measure of this terrific micro-estate, Auchère’s electrifying Sancerre Blanc is available today as well. Click here and assemble yourself a one-stop master class on the Sancerre terroir!

Whether you fancy his red, his white, or both, Auchère represents the ultimate in farm-scale viticulture. His property, in the village of Bué (home to famous estates such as Lucien Crochet and Jean-Max Roger), doubles as a sheep farm—meaning not all the property’s six hectares are planted to vines. What is planted to vines, however, is managed with rigor by Philippe and his son-in-law, Paul: this is one of the few organic domaines in the region, eschewing all chemical inputs. Sheep and pigs graze in the vineyards to help manage weed growth, and Auchère uses “microtractors” to limit soil compaction and reduce CO2 emissions.

The soils here are the pebbly limestone-clay mixture known locally as caillottes, one of three distinct soil types found in the region. Auchère’s Pinot Noir vines are predominantly south-facing, adding a welcome addition of heat and sun exposure to this typically cool growing region. Everything is hand-harvested, of course, and in the cellar, terroir “transparency” is the name of the game. The juice is fermented using only ambient yeasts and the finished wine is aged in tanks for about one year before bottling. As is typical of Pinot Noirs from Sancerre, this has a very pretty, ethereal feel to it, along with sneaky persistence on the finish.

Shining a bright ruby with magenta reflections, Auchère’s 2020 Rouge is a lifted, perfumed style of Pinot Noir, with aromas and flavors of freshly crushed raspberry, ripe black cherry, wild herbs, warm spice, and lots of underbrush. It is medium-bodied with a concentration of plump fruit to complement the many savory aspects of the wine. Give it a brief decant before serving at 55-60 degrees in Burgundy stems and you’ve got yourself one of the most food-friendly reds we’ve offered all year. If ever there was a time to break out your favorite roast chicken recipe, this would be it. Enjoy!