The key to understanding Albariño is its inclusion in the trio of bitter, unoaked European varieties—the other two being Pinot Grigio from Northern Italy and Grüner Veltliner from Austria. On the palate, if you chew these wines for 10 seconds, you will find a touch of “phenolic bitterness.” Phenolic bitterness is reminiscent of melon
skin or the sensation of tannin on the front and sides of the lips/mouth—similar in feel to lightly steeped green tea.
Most examples of these three grape varieties possess common characteristics, including moderate alcohol (about 12.5-13%), no
new oak, and a yellowish hue (although many Pinot Grigios can have a copper hue). Typically, the main differences between the three are that Grüner is decidedly spicier and has flavors of white pepper and radish; Pinot Grigio often has peanut shell
and bruised/oxidized yellow apple aromas; and Albariño most classically combines a sea-spray saltiness with fruitier, and often more tropical, sensations than those others. Each sub-region of Galicia’s Rías Baixas region—Albariño’s spiritual homeland—reveals different characteristics of the variety.
This example hails from vineyards in the Salvaterra de Miño, and from classically trained old vines. Finca Arantei is a top producer here,
in the very heart of the best terroir, so this wine displays plenty of telltale “sea spray” character to help point you in the direction of Albariño. If you are training for an exam and want to learn more about Albariño, the best thing to do is purchase 4-5 top examples from different sub-regions of Rías Baixas. This is the only truly classic region to taste from. Try to have them side-by-side to really capture the essential properties of the variety.
Make sure to get examples that are unoaked andless than 18 months old, since you will most likely be tested on the most recent vintage on the market. Pay attention to the bitterness and saltiness. Other classic examples are produced by La Caña, Pazo de Señorans, Albariño de Fefiñanes, Benito Santos, Paco y Lola, Morgadío, and Fillaboa.
