Christelle Betton is the perfect winemaker for this moment in wine, in which authenticity and sustainability have become some of the most important influencers of wine-buying decisions. She’s young; she’s a little bit country and a little rock n’ roll; and she’s taken over an estate previously run by her father and grandfather and not only improved quality but introduced an element of whimsy to the proceedings. This is the kind of artisanal winery any good importer wants in their portfolio, and we’re very glad to have it in our regular rotation. I love authentic, old-school Rhône Syrah, and this is as good as it gets at this price! Deeply concentrated, savory and spicy, aromatic and long-finishing...this Crozes has it all. It may say “Caprice” (“whim”) on the label, but this stuff is pretty darn serious, too. Do not miss it!
Betton’s wines are among those that will make even the most seasoned Northern Rhône wine connoisseurs take a fresh look at “lesser” appellations such as Crozes-Hermitage and Saint-Joseph. Obviously, both places had transcendental producers (Gonon, Trollat, Combier) in generations past, but these days, the critical mass is growing. Look at Beaujolais, or the Galicia region of Spain, too; traditional, hierarchical appellation rankings are literally under siege. Great wine really can come from anywhere right now.
Christelle can experiment freely because she’s well-grounded in her family’s winemaking tradition, having watched both her father and grandfather farm their ancient terraces without compromising the Northern Rhône’s traditional methods of production for more modern techniques. The Bettons have adhered to sustainable and organic principles for decades, going so far as to hand-plow the rocky alluvial soil to encourage deep roots and maximum expression of terroir. That being said, Christelle chooses not to certify so she’s unrestricted by rules other than her own.
The 2021 “Caprice” comes from Betton’s oldest and best vines, some planted as far back as the 1950s. Grapes are hand-harvested into small crates, destemmed, and cold-macerated for a few days before an indigenous-yeast fermentation. They’re aged in neutral French oak barrels purchased from white Burgundy producers and bottled unfined and unfiltered. You get the picture: pure, old-vine Syrah that transports you back to a different time, when the Rhone still flew under the radar and not a single sacrifice was made in quality.
The wine is a deep violet-red in the glass with magenta and ruby at the rim. The first highly concentrated aromas jump out to meet you: bright raspberries, blackberries, boysenberries and licorice floating above a firm foundation of olive, meat and exotic spice. The flavors intensify on the palate with a little spicy potpourri and blueberry. Tannins are supple and green; they’ll soften noticeably over the next three to five years but it’s going to be hard to wait that long when the wine is so juicy. If you’re uncorking one tonight, give Caprice an hour in a decanter and serve at 60-65 degrees in big Bordeaux stems. That fresh, voluminous flavor will pair perfectly with Korean style short ribs or a sweet-and-sour tagine heaped over steaming couscous. Whether you’re enjoying it tonight or any other, make sure to have another bottle on hand. You’re going to want it.
