First released in 2013, Jon Bonné’s “The New California Wine” was true to its title: It examined California wine through a new lens. Not only is California so much more than high-priced, high-scoring Napa Cabernet, the typical winery business model has changed dramatically. Owning vineyards—i.e. an “estate”—is out of reach for most, so instead, a more “indie” approach has prevailed: Producers like LIOCO contract with independent growers to source grapes, then make their wines in “custom crush” facilities that are usually a far cry from the châteaux and castelli of Old World Europe. LIOCO’s “Indica” is quintessential “new California” wine: sourced from heritage vineyards; made from “outlier” grapes; crafted with a European sensibility (i.e. for everyday drinking rather than score-chasing). It works beautifully, because, in the end, California can do a lot of things (like Carignan!) very well.