The Delarches are in that rare minority of families in Burgundy who never got the memo to triple their prices. Their lesser-known village of Pernand-Vergelesses, in the literal and figurative shadow of Grand Cru Corton-Charlemagne, has something to do with that. 

And yet—there are only two producers in The French Laundry’s Pernand-Vergelesses section: Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey and Etienne Delarche. Young Etienne expertly vinifies his tiny patch of “Les Combottes” (“the little hollows”) into just a few barrels each year. It’s an insider’s white Burgundy that sharp somms glass-pour—and when their shift is over, they pour a cold, glistening chalice of their own. You should too.

Why You'll Love It

• Pernand-Vergelesses is an undervalued village, and Les Combottes is an underpriced village wine within that village. In a world where $100 village Chassagne-Montrachet is a sad reality, $49  for this “uncrowned” Premier Cru feels illicit.

• Killer vintage! Jancis Robinson called 2023 “A generous vintage in terms of both volume and ripeness, but paired with lively, racy acidity.”

• Beautiful stone fruit flavors like white peach, spicy clove, and poached pears. This wine will appeal to people who love drinking GREAT white Burgundy—but don’t fawn over labels.

How to Serve it

• Serve in Burgundy bowls or white wine stems, at 48°F.

• Drink now or through 2028.

• Pair with Dungeness crab salad composed with shaved fennel and grapefruit.