Even in Alsace, a region with a bevy of historical estates, few can compete with the pedigree behind Domaine Weinbach. The five-hectare Clos de Capucins from which “Cuvée Theo” springs comprises the heart of the estate. Planted in 1612 by Capuchin monks on sandy granite soils, and vines have grown here continuously until the present day.
The government seized the estate from the monks following the French Revolution, then sold it to the current owners, the Faller family, in 1898. Theo Faller, namesake of “Cuvée Theo,” was the second generation to run the estate. He prized the Riesling of Clos de Capucins above all else, and established his estate as a source for quality wine when most others were focused on large-scale production sold to co-ops. Now, the fifth generation of the Faller family steers the ship, working not just with Clos de Capucins but a host of other Grand Cru vineyards.
On our short list of great Alsatian producers, Weinbach is very near the top. They’ve farmed organically from the very start, and in 2005 converted the estate to Biodynamics. Winemaking is simple here – the Clos de Capucin Riesling that comprises “Cuvée Theo” is simply picked at optimal ripeness, pressed into old oak casks where it ferments spontaneously, and aged for a year. This is pure Alsatian brilliance: ample ripeness and power from the sun-soaked growing season, underpinned by a vibrant and ageworthy structure.
Why You’ll Love It
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Brimming with solar power and prominent fruit yet singing with the tension we crave in Austrian and German Riesling.
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Aromas are a swirling melange of ripe yellow peach, apricot, white flowers, lime zest, cinnamon spice, and thrumming with granitic minerality.
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There’s ample weight and texture to the palate, coating your tongue with golden fruit, then a rush of brilliant acidity comes through and leaves you craving the next sip.
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You can pop it now on a weeknight alongside some grilled fish, or open it in a decade and cook a slow-braised choucroute garnie to go with it.