Here’s the difference between one of our favorite Montalicino producer’s Brunello and Rosso: vine age. That’s right, the only real difference between the two wines that Peitroso makes is that the Rosso contains fruit from mostly the younger vines–and by younger I mean only 30-40 years old. The purpose is to make a wine that requires less aging, both in barrels and in bottle, before it is ready to drink, and the Pignattai family nailed it! This is sumptuous, silky, classic and classy Sangiovese that is ready to go with just a little decant. Vintage after vintage of Pietroso Brunello has proved to us (and many of you) just how special this estate is–they are a true gem in this now world famous hilltop village–and their Rosso will do exactly the same.
They are also relatively rare, as Pietroso is a relatively tiny property: There are about 13 acres of vineyards across three parcels, on the western slopes of the Montalcino hill. Located just minutes outside the town of Montalcino proper, the original Pietroso vineyard covered just one hectare and was farmed by Domenico Berni, who originally made wines for home consumption but began releasing commercially in the mid-1970s. Today, Berni’s grand-nephew, Gianni Pignattai, runs the property (expanded slightly, to just over five hectares), with his wife and family. Their vineyards are planted exclusively to Sangiovese, at altitudes ranging from 350 to 450 meters’ above sea level, with the vineyards used for Brunello averaging 30 years of age.
As is clear once the wine is poured, this is unmistakably old-school Montalcino—it has the medium-garnet hue one should expect from the Sangiovese grape, not the inkier cast some modern Brunellos display (usually from aging in smaller, newer oak barrels). That said, it is not “old-school” in the sense of being funky or flawed; this is squeaky clean and beautifully perfumed, showcasing both the power and the elegance of Sangiovese without ever being heavy or dull. Today’s 2022 was hand harvested, fermented in stainless steel, and then aged for one year in large, traditional, Slavonian oak barrels.
The 2022 Rosso is a deep garnet red in the glass, with perfumed aromas of red and black cherry, currant, blackberry, black plum, anise, rose petals, underbrush, aromatic herbs, and sandalwood spice. It is medium-plus in body with a fine-grained quality to its tannins and loads of palate-enlivening freshness driving a long, aromatic finish. It also has superb balance, making it perfect for drinking now, after a quick decant. That said, I would love to lose a few bottles in the cellar for five or so years, my guess is it will get even better!. Serve it in Bordeaux stems at 60-65 degrees with fuller-flavored game birds like quail or duck, Tuscan hunter-style. It’s a memorable wine and one which you would be smart to have around for any Sangiovese occasion. Grab some!
