If you have never heard of Passerina, welcome to the club! This obscure, ancient grape variety is only found in a few areas of central Italy, most commonly the Piceno region of the southern Marche and in the hills of Abruzzo just over the border. But in the commune of Offida, where the Adriatic coast lies just a few miles to the east and the Central Apennines rise in the west, Passerina is truly at home. In this seemingly tailor made terroir, it produces wines of pure, mineral laden freshness. When veteran sommeliers complain that Italian white wines are too soft and heavy, they clearly have not experienced Offida Passerina. Today’s pitch-perfect example of the variety comes from a tiny family farm in the hills, where everything is done organically and with a nod to this region’s ancient winemaking traditions. This very affordable bottle is a sure winner for Italian wine lovers and lovers of great, mineral driven white wine writ large!
Poderi San Lazzaro was founded a few decades ago when Lorenzo Capriotti used his life savings to purchase a small farm in the hills outside of Offida, in the southern Marche, just a few miles from the Adriatic coast. The farm lies in the well established Rosso Piceno DOCG, and as such Lorenzo planted a few vines and used a small, 1000 year old farmhouse to convert into a functional winery. After years of hard but enjoyable work, Lorenzo turned the farm over to his son, Paolo, and daughter-in-law Elisetta in 2003. Over the past two decades the couple has expanded their holdings, purchasing several vineyards and planting others, to a total of 9.5 hectares, along with a couple hectares of olive groves and ancient forests.
The vines include plantings of Pecorino, Sangiovese, Montelpuciano and a little Grenache, but the local Passerina variety is a passion project for Paolo and Elisetta, and they have actually expanded their vine area for this unique grape. Although you can find Passerina elsewhere in central Italy, the wines it produces on the western side of the Apennines, in Lazio, are so different that many believe that there are two different varieties. It is only in the hills around Offida, and to a lesser extent in the Abruzzi hills across the border to the south, that Passerina produces a super mineral, saline white wine that can rival any and all coastal whites, from Albariño in Galicia to Muscadet in the western Loire.
Paolo and Elisetta are meticulous farmers, and they have been using only organic methods for many years now in order to obtain the most pristine, healthy fruit possible. The Passerina is hand harvested towards the end of September, allowing for excellent ripeness but also maintaining the classic acidity and minerality that this grape is known for. Serve it on the crisp side, around 48-50 degrees, and the coastal notes of citrus and seaspray will immediately begin to pop. Aromas of stone fruit, citrus peel, orange blossom, sage, pine needles, and wet rocks lead to a medium bodied palate that is fresh and snappy, and loaded with (here it comes again) salty sea breezes and minerals. Enjoy this wine with a simple appetizer of pecorino cheese and good olives, but if you want to make a meal out of it I would recommend the local version of linguine alla vongole (pasta with clams). Buon appetito!
