We’ve been preaching the gospel of German Pinot Noir, especially those from Baden, for several years now, and yet I am still astounded, and quite frankly a bit befuddled, that these wines have managed to fly under the radar for so long. There are signs that this is slowly starting to change, but in the meantime these are still among the best values in suave, elegant, complex red wine anywhere on the planet. One of our favorite–and likely best–examples is the wine of Burg Ravensburg. This historic estate has much in common with its Burgundian “cousins” 250 miles southwest–shifting boundaries and kingdoms, battles, monks mapping vineyards–and it boasts a continuous production back to 1251, which is almost unheard of in Burgundy. But enough with the comparisons, the truth is that what is inside the bottle speaks volumes. This is really all the story you need: savory, silky, sappy, pure Pinot Noir magic for a super good price–stock up!
That said, the rest of the story is a pretty good one, and it goes something like this: The same Cistercian monks who planted this noble grape in Burgundy also did so in Baden, Germany around the same time. As such, Burg Ravensburg has spent an astounding eight centuries cultivating and mastering this finicky grape from their village of Sulzfeld. A wine dynasty if there ever was one, they are now a renowned powerhouse that proudly holds the largest stand of organic vineyards in all of Germany. Because of their sprawling presence, a massive percentage of their vineyards are grosse lage—the German equivalent of Grand Cru. Now, incorporate all of this into today’s “Sulzfeld” and the remarkable value starts to become apparent. Entirely sourced from the vineyard that surrounds this ancient estate, with a bed of soils that date back a quarter-billion years, this organically farmed Pinot Noir is the epitome of wine nobility.
The year ‘1251’ is prominently displayed on each and every Burg Ravensburg label, and why shouldn’t it be? There aren’t many estates in the world—and far fewer vineyards—that draw on this much history. Yet, shockingly, the family itself goes back even further, having been locally documented as Barons back in 931 AD. I’d say it’s safe to assume they know the land better than anyone else could. In order to extract every ounce of character from this ancient terroir, owner Heinz Heiler made a wise decision when he hired Claus Burmeister: Not only does Claus have a degree in viticulture, he was raised in this very cellar, as his own father was head winemaker when Claus was growing up.
If you’re in the town of Sulzfeld and you spot a grosse lage vineyard, chances are Burg Ravensburg owns it. They are the king of premium vines around here, and although today’s “Sulzfeld” bottling isn’t a “grand cru” it is entirely sourced from the contiguous vineyard that encircles their ancient estate. Following the strictest organic practices, they make their own compost on the property (which their importer found out after having lunch in the vineyard, downwind from the steaming pile), and hand-pick their Pinot Noir after making several passes through the vineyard. Only ripe, unflawed grapes make it into the winery, and even then, grapes are sorted yet again. Afterwards, a six-day cold maceration allows for added extraction and flavor before a long fermentation. All the while, whenever the juice moves from location to location, it is done so by gravity only. No pumps here! The wine ages in mostly neutral oak barrels before bottling without filtration.
Shining a brilliantly deep ruby in the glass, the 2021 “Sulzfeld” Pinot Noir instantly erupts with generous notes that highlight this ancient German terroir. Although buttressed by a woodsy, savory component throughout, a wealth of various fruits burst onto the scene—black raspberries, currant, cherries, red plums, and strawberry—before melding with savory earth, smoky underbrush, and a hint of pink peppercorn. The palate is comfortably medium-bodied, with silky tannins, uplifting notes of acidity, and underlying dusty accents. This is resoundingly ‘old world’ Pinot Noir that seamlessly glides across your palate while flaunting its elegance. I highly recommend a quick 30-minute decant to shed its nervous energy before serving in Burgundy stems at around 55-60 degrees. It’s a perfect pairing for roasted fowl of any kind, or anything with mushrooms, and it will further impress if you hold a few back over the coming years—it has the pedigree, vintage, and expert craftsmanship to last quite a while. Cheers!
