In case we haven’t hammered this point home forcefully enough over the last 10 years: You don’t have to be a wealthy “collector” to drink a proper, well-aged Bordeaux. In fact, there is no other wine region in the world that offers up so much excellent, age-worthy wine at such reasonable prices. Call it economies of scale, because that’s really what it is: There are a few grand châteaux at the very top of the Bordeaux pyramid who are able to charge huge sums for their wines, but we can never forget that this is France’s most productive wine region. There’s a lot of wine made in Bordeaux, and even the hippest, most anti-establishment sommelier cannot deny that quality (and sustainability) in Bordeaux has skyrocketed. And, just as important, the value proposition in Bordeaux simply cannot be beat. Today’s silky-smooth, ready-to-drink beauty from Château Aney is merely the latest in a long line of over-achievers. It’s nearly a decade old, it hails from one of the 21st century’s greatest vintages to date, and it can be had for the price of some off-brand supermarket red. What else needs to be said?
Well, of course there’s more to be said—this is SommSelect, after all. Château Aney’s winery and vineyards are in the town of Cussac Fort Médoc, which is “strategically” positioned between Saint-Julien and Margaux; it is relatively close to the Gironde Estuary and thus in a gravelly terroir that favors Cabernet Sauvignon, which comprises 65% of this blend. While gravel helps retain heat and aid full ripening of the fruit, the climate is tempered by breezes off the Atlantic Ocean, as in most of the Médoc.
This is a historic Bordeaux château, and, as is so often the case in Bordeaux, that building is depicted on the label. It was built in 1850 by the Aney family—just five years before the famous “classification” of the estates of the Médoc. By the time the Raimond family acquired it, in 1972, it had fallen into disrepair, but it has since been revived in grand style and returned to its Cru Bourgeois status by the Raimonds.
The final blend of the wine matches the proportions in which they are planted throughout the 30 hectares of vineyards: 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Petit Verdot. Fermentation is carried out in a mixture of concrete and stainless steel tanks over the course of about three weeks. The finished wine is aged for a year in barrels (30% new) and is then transferred to stainless steel for another year before bottling.
Lush, soulful, and elegant, with Cabernet Sauvignon leading the way: This wine has a very traditional Bordeaux feel—there’s no mistaking it for New World Cabernet—with lots of graphite and cedar notes interspersed with lots of black fruits (currant; woodland berries). What’s most noticeable are its reasonable proportions: it is not an especially “big” wine, but rather one with high-toned aromas and, now that it has nearly a decade under its belt, very silky tannins. It is ready to drink now: Decant it shortly before service (watching for sediment) and pour into Bordeaux stems at 60-65 degrees. Its plushness and still-vibrant fruit make it a good candidate for sipping on its own, but of course we’re always more inclined to find something appropriate to pair it with. In this case, you might try a pork shoulder roast or maybe a leaner cut of beef like filet mignon; this is an elegant aged wine with a relatively gentle touch. Cook accordingly and enjoy!
