Domaine André Mathieu is a historic property in the heart of Châteauneuf-du-Pape that makes über traditional wine from a treasure trove of very old vines of Grenache planted among all 13 allowable grape varieties. As such we’ve always focused on their “Cuvée Centanaire,” and we will continue to do so (look out for a bonus offer this afternoon!), but when André’s local importer offered us a crazy good deal on his elegant, extra-drinkable yet sneakily complex Côtes-du-Rhone I just couldn’t pass it up. All the same history, farming, and winemaking prowess go into this wine from vines just outside the Châteauneuf zone, but the vines are a bit younger, and the price is much lower! This is the perfect house wine for winter stews, and will transition perfectly into spring pic-nics and barbeques. We’ve passed our savings along, take advantage and stock up!

When winemakers talk about generational knowledge, they are referring to a sort of sixth sense that can develop as a young vigneron in training moves about the family farm where they grew up, and where their ancestors have lived and worked for many generations. Well, André Mathieu has some generational knowledge in droves. His domaine, at the heart of the Southern Rhône’s most famous appellation, Cháteauneuf du Pape, has been passed down from parents to children in a continuous line since 1600. To say that farming grapes here is in his blood would be an understatement; it kind of is his blood. But generational knowledge still needs good raw materials, and here André is also blessed: His estate includes some parcels of vines that were planted between 1890 and 1914, so 110 to 130 years old. We think that counts as “old vines.” These beauties produced powerfully robust, long-lived wines that will impress wine lovers of every taste and experience. However, those vines produce precious little fruit, and the family needs something to sell more regularly, and quite frankly something to drink on Monday or Tuesday evening like the rest of us. That’s where their four hectares of vines in the Côtes-du-Rhône (CDR) appellation come into play! 

Now, the CDR is a giant region, and they make lakes of wine–but much of that is simple, quaffable red at best, and insipid or overwrought commercial plonk at worst. André’s version, not surprisingly, is none of the above. The vines here aren’t as old (more like 30-40 instead of 130), and the aging in large vats is shorter, but otherwise everything is done just like they do with their top tier Châteaunuefs. Most importantly they farm meticulously, and limit yields so there is loads of depth and concentration, just with a bit more freshness and less need for aging. The 2021 is now at peak drinking, and will stay there for the next two to three years; just the right amount of time to tide us all over while we wait for the Châteauneuf!

Though you could certainly decant this 2021, I found it ready to rock almost immediately after the cork was pulled. Poured into a Burgundy stem the color is a deep garnet, with hints of magenta and brick orange at the rim. The nose is a rush of brambly, sappy fruits–blackberries, raspberries, cherry liqueur–that is quickly followed by spicy/savory notes of cracked peppercorn, fennel, sage, rosemary, clove, and a touch of meat. It’s perfect with hearty stews, but will also go great with anything you throw on the grill when the weather starts to warm. Buy a case, and if it lasts a couple years the wine might be even better, but I doubt it will make it past the summer!