If you’ve never tasted Tokaji Aszú, you’re in for one of the most singular experiences in wine. The 2016 Bodrog Borműhely “6 Puttonyos” rivals even top-tier Sauternes, delivering a confounding level of luxury and finesse. Crafted in Hungary’s historic Tokaj region, this bottling follows centuries-old tradition: hand-harvested botrytized Furmint and Hárslevelű berries are macerated into a dry base wine, then aged 24 months in neutral Hungarian oak.
Tokaji Aszú was once prescribed as medicine, favored by Popes, Tsars, and thinkers like Voltaire and Goethe. Though still underappreciated in the U.S., Tokaj is undergoing a renaissance, led by producers like János Hajduz and Krisztián Farkas of Bodrog Borműhely. Only 24 bottles of this vintage made it stateside—so if you can grab one or two, don’t relegate it to dessert. It’s just as brilliant as an aperitif or with savory dishes like blue cheese or foie gras. This is liquid history, bottled. One bottle won’t be enough—you’ll want a second or third to cellar for the next three to four decades.
With 179 g/L of residual sugar, this wine is undeniably sweet—but its ripping acidity (10.96 g/L) and low alcohol (9.5%) create perfect balance. For comparison, the famed 2016 Château d’Yquem clocks in at 135 g/L sugar, 5.0 g/L acidity, and 14.2% alcohol. Bodrog’s version is far less unctuous, far more nimble, and a superior food-pairing wine thanks to its mouthwatering freshness.
Expect aromas of quince, mango, fig, citrus blossom, and baking spice, with a palate bursting with tropical fruit, crushed minerals, and a savory finish that lingers for over a minute. The electric acidity disguises the sugar so well, it’s almost surreal. Serve chilled (50–55°F) in small pours and enjoy over several days as it evolves.