Over the years, the Hansel vineyard holdings—all Chardonnay and Pinot Noir—have grown to 80 acres. All these vineyards are contiguous to one another, with the winery plopped right in the middle, and it’s Stephen Hansel—who helped his father, Walter, plant the very first vines on the property back in the ’70s—leading the estate’s small team in both the vineyards and cellar. Well-known Pinot/Chardonnay producer Tom Rochioli offers invaluable consultation, and has been a source of budwood for new vineyard plantings on the estate; in all, Hansel incorporates some 11 different clones in its assorted vineyard blocks, with the Cahill Lane Vineyard comprised entirely of “Wente Clone” Chardonnay rooted in clay soils mixed with sandy Goldridge loam; according to Stephen Hansel, it is typically the last Chardonnay block to be harvested, with the extended hang time lending the resultant wine that magical combination of richness and freshness.

 In the glass, it’s a luminous yellow-gold with straw and silver reflections, reminiscent of some of the more luxurious produce of the Côte de Beaune: aromas of yellow apple, pear, white peach, citrus peel, fresh cream, raw hazelnut, and white flowers. Nearly full-bodied and lushly textured, its considerable palate