Here’s the truth: Most top tier California wine (and most fine wine in general) is consumed way too young. The simple explanation is financial–most wineries, or restaurants, or retailers, simply can’t afford to age wines for many years; they need to sell them as soon as possible. So when I encounter a rare exception I jump all over it. Today’s perfectly aged, stored right at the winery where it was born, Cabernet from the stupendous 2013 vintage is a prime example. I’m sure this wine was quite enjoyable when it was first released, but a decade of bottle age has allowed the fruit, tannin, and savory components to all come together in a deliciously harmonious way. You can’t manufacture what proper age helps the best wines achieve–it’s a bit of magic in the best possible way. And the best news is that you can experience this awe-inspiring “magic” for less than $50 . . . don’t delay!
Pedro and Karen Arroyo founded Viluko Vineyards in 2006 with a simple concept: Focus on classic Bordeaux varieties, farmed organically and growing at high elevations on the western slopes of the Mayacamas Mountains. Pedro grew up on his grandfather’s ranch in Chilé, surrounded by nature and vineyards. Karen is a native Californian who has felt a kinship with the native flora and fauna of this state since she was a child. Together with winemaker Tom Milos they produce small amounts of estate grown wines that reflect a “back to the vineyards” mentality that is reminiscent of the golden era of the 1960s and ‘70s in Sonoma and Napa.
The Mayacamas Mountains form a natural boundary between Sonoma and Napa counties, but when most wine lovers think of Mayacamas they think only of Napa. It’s true that there are many more vineyards and a higher concentration of prestige labels on the Napa side, but what you get on the western slopes that fall towards the Sonoma Valley is weather that is a touch cooler, a touch foggier, and therefor wines that have a bit more freshness and savory complexity. That’s not to say they lack in power or structure–there is plenty of sunshine and warmth on the Sonoma side–but they do tend to have a bit more finesse than their Napa siblings.
Today’s 2013 Cabernet is a stunningly great example of this subtle nuance in terroir. The vintage was a tremendous one throughout Northern California. The characteristic warmth and sunshine were available in droves, but there wasn’t the same hydric stress on the vines that subsequent years saw due to drought. Tom and the team hand-harvested the pristine, organically grown fruit in early October. After a short, five day cold soak the fruit was fermented with native yeasts and then gently pressed into French oak barrels (50% new) to undergo malolactic fermentation and then aging in those same barrels for 18 months before bottling without fining or filtration.
Despite its very humble price tag, the 2013 Viluko Cabernet deserves the same treatment as classed growth Bordeaux or a culty Napa wine that cost four times as much. Decant gently off the sediment for 30-45 minutes before serving at cellar temperature in large Bordeaux stems. The nose will quickly open with an array of black and red fruits–cassis, blackberry, cherry liqueur, cranberry compote–that are layered with spicy notes of cinnamon and clove, plus savory hints of cocoa powder, sage, and wild mint. The richly textured, medium-full body still has plenty of freshness and a very long, mineral flecked finish. Serve with a classic tenderloin in Bordelaise sauce and you’ll have a five star meal at a two star price!