For the past several years we’ve been lamenting the ever increasing prices of Sancerre. It makes sense of course; this is one of the world’s most popular white wines now and they can only make so much, classic supply and demand. Often, we recommend excellent wines from the nearby villages, of which Pouilly-Fumé is the most storied and recognized. Sadly though, we’ve seen prices here on the rise too of late, which is why today’s discovery is so exciting! Brand new to the states, Pierre Marchand is an ancient estate making pitch-perfect Sauvignon Blanc that doesn’t break the bank. As the holiday spending winds down we’re all looking for a deal, and this is one that will go the distance. Stock up; spring will be here soon enough!
The estate of Pierre Marchand et Fils traces its history back to 1650, and today brothers Eric and Pascal manage the family’s 17 hectares of Sauvignon Blanc vines, much as their ancestors have for countless generations. The winery and cellar is located in Les Loges, a hamlet that is so tiny it doesn’t initially appear anywhere on satellite maps. But, if you zoom in far enough you eventually find it, sitting right at the bank of the Loire River, almost exactly equidistant from Pouilly to the south and Sancerre to the northwest. Despite its miniscule size, the vines surrounding Les Loges have long been considered among the most ideally situated in the Pouilly-Fumé appellation–a blessing and a responsibility that the Marchands do not take for granted.
The name “Pouilly-Fumé” translates to something like “the smoke of Pouilly,” and most assume that this refers to the classic hints of smoke that these wines are known for. That quality is likely due to the high presence of flint, known locally as “silex,” in the soils here. Of course, names tend to have a life of their own and old school California wine drinkers are likely familiar with “Fumé Blanche,” a name given to vaguely Loire inspired (aka not aged in toasty oak) Sauvignon Blanc and similar blends made in Napa and the surrounding areas. And indeed, Les Loges, as it turns out, has a relatively high percentage of Kimmeridgian limestone in its soil, which adds both a breadth of texture and a mineral cut to the smoky, aromatic qualities of flint. The lesson (if there is one): Names are interesting and can be important, but what’s inside the bottle is the final answer!
Given their excellent and unique terroir, Pascal and Eric focus primarily on farming and maintaining the integrity of their vines. Though not certified organic, they generally eschew chemicals of all kinds and work instead with a focus on harmony with nature–that has earned them the highest level of “sustainability” that you can achieve in France. Once they harvest their pristine fruit the work in the cellar is simple and straightforward. The fruit is pressed very gently into temperature controlled tanks, then fermented and aged on the lees in those same tanks for several months before bottling. Everything is done to preserve freshness and to highlight the terroir of “Les Loges.”
You can serve this top tier Pouilly in all-purpose glasses to accentuate the crisp, mineral drive of the wine, or switch to Burgundy stems for a more complex, aromatic experience. Either way serve it chilled, but not too cold, and enjoy a super fresh, super traditional Sauvignon Blanc. The nose leads with lemon-lime zest, gooseberries, green melon, white flowers, tarragon, and of course a nice little hint of matchstick and smoke. The body is medium, with a lovely texture and crisp fruit that finishes with loads of saline minerals. For the winter I’d pair it with fresh oysters or perhaps some shellfish in a citrus forward sauce. It’s also an excellent pairing with a spread of soft cheeses, tinned fish, and a good baguette! If that has you dreaming of spring and summer picnics you’re not alone, so stock up and be ready for the warmer weather that is only a few months away!