2018 Champagne Léguillette-Romelot "Cépages d'Autrefois Millésime Brut" is a rare single-vintage showcase from this small grower-producer in Charly-sur-Marne (Marne Valley/Côte des Bar), blending five of Champagne's seven permitted grape varieties to highlight forgotten heirlooms: 59% Pinot Meunier (for roundness and fruit), 18% Pinot Blanc (golden stone fruit vibrancy), 15% Pinot Noir (structure), 5% Petit Meslier (crisp acidity), 2% Chardonnay (lift), and 1% Arbane (floral nuance). From old vines (average 40 years) on clay-limestone soils, the 2018—warm and ripe but balanced—is hand-harvested, vinified in stainless steel with native yeasts, and lees-aged ~36 months for texture, with low dosage (~6g/L Brut) emphasizing purity over power. Tasting notes reveal pale yellow with fine mousse, precise aromatics of white peach, Mirabelle plum, fresh cream, toasted grains, and sea salt, plus apricot jam, buttered toast, crushed minerals, and salted preserved lemon on a creamy, tart-mineral finish—astonishing complexity from obscure grapes.
Léguillette-Romelot, founded officially in 1963 (roots to 1705), farms ~20 acres sustainably (HVE/VDC certified) with Christine Léguillette at the helm, focusing on Meunier-dominant blends plus "Cépages d'Autrefois" from Clos du Mont Dorin—old-vine plots revived for rare varieties like Arbane and Petit Meslier. Total production ~40,000 bottles/year emphasizes terroir-driven, low-intervention Champagnes from Aisne's cooler, clay-influenced sites. The 2018 "Cépages d'Autrefois" stands out as a millésime rarity (CT92 average on CellarTracker), drinkable now–2030, with Meunier's generosity tempered by Petit Meslier's edge and Arbane's subtlety—proving Côte des Bar's potential beyond the big houses.
Why You'll Love It
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Rare heirloom revival: Blends 5/7 obscure Champagne grapes (Arbane! Petit Meslier!), delivering floral, stone-fruit exotics absent in standard PN/Chard/Meunier trios.
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Vibrant 2018 balance: Warm vintage ripeness meets high acidity and minerality for creamy texture, precise aromatics, and age-worthiness (now–2030).
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Grower purity: Old-vine, sustainable Marne Valley terroir shines through low-intervention vinification—no oak, native yeast, long lees for seamless complexity.
How to Serve It
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Chill to 45–48°F: Preserve fine mousse and bright peach/apricot aromatics; serve in white wine glasses to unfurl toasted grains, sea salt, and mineral depth without losing freshness.
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Pair adventurously: Shellfish/Oysters, Roasted Chicken, Seared Sea Scallops w/ Herb Beurre Blanc, Seafood Risottos or Soft and Creamy Cheeses.
