As the “Rhône Rangers” long ago proved, California has shown a special affinity for the grape varieties of France’s Rhône Valley—not just Syrah and Grenache, meanwhile, but the whites, too. Santa Barbara County has long been the epicenter of this movement, and three of its greatest vineyards are the heart of Jeremy Weintraub’s SITE wine lineup, which includes this stellar Roussanne from Stolpman Vineyards.
Located in the cool, windy Ballard Canyon AVA, Stolpman is perhaps best-known for world-class Syrah, but 15 acres of their organically farmed, limestone-rich slopes are devoted to Roussanne, which rarely gets a starring role, even in its ancestral homeland. The 2015, which performs like a top-class Hermitage Blanc for a fraction of the price, will have you asking why—as in, “Why doesn’t Roussanne get top billing?” and “Why aren’t I drinking more Rhône whites?” The great accomplishment of this version from SITE is that it captures the ideal combination of texture and tension in a variety that often skews a little too honeyed and flabby, even in Old World incarnations. Weintraub really nailed this one, creating a white that is both sumptuous and refreshing. Not that any was needed, but it’s proof that this grape in this place makes wine to be reckoned with!
As I mentioned above, texture and tension are the keywords for this 2015: It has the assertive, floral aromas and rich, almost viscous texture Roussanne is famous for, but also the kind of acid backbone only the best examples manage to achieve. It’s a deep yellow-gold in the glass, with a heady swirl of aromas: white peach, lemon, orange blossoms, honeysuckle, and wet stones. There’s a plush, satisfying touch of viscosity on the mid-palate followed by a cleansing jolt of citrusy freshness. The alcohol is very moderate, too (13.2%), lending this very textured white an uncommon buoyancy. It may sound a little crazy, but it’s a full-bodied white in a light-bodied package. Pull the cork on this about 15 minutes before serving in all-purpose white stems (or larger) at 45-50 degrees with some Santa Barbara-style cioppino (or some fish tacos with lots of aromatics). This is a unique and delicious white that deserves a showcase. Check it out!