Many of you have likely
heard of Clos Rougeard, the cult producer of Saumur-Champigny who a few years
ago was purchases by the billionaire owners who own Château Montrose in Sainte-Estèphe.
Well, Antoine Sanzay is not merely a Rougeard neighbor (both have pieces of the
same vineyard, “Les Poyeux,” in the village of Chacé), but one of an acclaimed
new crop of producers bringing polish and prestige to the Central Loire—a place
still (inexplicably) overlooked by “serious” collectors. Loire Cabernet Franc keeps
surprising and delighting us. Time to get on this bandwagon! Sanzay’s “Cuvée
Domaine,” sourced from 35-year-old vines and both vinified and aged in concrete
vats. In the glass it’s a deep ruby with magenta highlights at the rim, with
aromas of black cherry, cranberry, black raspberry, damp violets, tobacco, and
a hint of black pepper. The medium-bodied palate is fresh and full of
acid-driven energy. One can mistake this for cru Beaujolais, as the overall
effect is similar, but the hints of sage and mint intermingling with the lush,
juicy fruit are a key indicator of Cabernet Franc. This is another one of those
wines that would disappear first if plopped down on a table of sommeliers.