Pinot Grigio-as-punchline is all wrong! When the variety is shown the proper respect, as it is in the northeastern Italian regions of Alto Adige (Südtirol) and Friuli, it offers lots of sumptuous texture balanced by cleansing freshness. Historically, the Alto Adige/Südtirol has been dominated by cooperative wineries, many of which date to the 19th century and are named for specific villages; these co-ops typically supervise scores of local vine-growers (often numbering in the hundreds). These aren’t just bulk-production clearinghouses for local farmers (as some co-ops are), but world-class, acclaimed wineries. “Erste & Neue” translates as “first and new,” referring to the 1986 merger the very first co-op in the town of Caldaro/Kaltern (founded in 1900) with a “newer” one (1925). Erste & Neue today has about 500 growers contributing grapes from approximately 280 hectares of vineyards. Think Alsatian Pinot Gris without any residual sweetness: deep flavors of yellow/green apple, pear, white flowers, wet stones. Great as an apéritif or paired with cured meats, cheese plates, salads.