Rosé Champagne this good, at this price, is a rarity; when we find one, it’s cause for celebration—and sharing! After tasting this savory and substantial Brut Rosé from Chapuy—a small, family-run house in the Grand Cru village of Oger—we couldn’t wait to get it on the schedule, because values like this don’t come around very often.
The Chapuys themselves refer to their wine as “premium-quality Champagne at an ‘owner’ price,” which, in a region so readily associated with luxury branding, is an appealing motto to say the least. Most important of all, the wine delivers: It’s full of vibrant red fruits and backed with chalky minerality that drives a wildly refreshing finish. If you’ve got any upcoming celebrations you’d like to elevate without going broke, or if you believe, like we do, that a weeknight dinner is just as plausible a scenario for a delicious wine like this, Chapuy has you covered. We’ve got enough stock to allow up to a case per customer, which should help you feel well-equipped for the summer ahead.
The Chapuy family have been crafting their line of Champagnes since Serge Chapuy launched the brand in 1952, but they’ve been farming their 20 acres of vines much, much longer: Since the French Revolution, this family has cultivated grapes in and around the prestigious Grand Cru village of Oger. Their presence in Oger over the past couple hundred years (one of their ancestors was the town mayor!) has blessed them with some of the finest Grand Cru growing sites for Chardonnay. Serge’s son, Arnold, took over the estate in the early ‘80s and since then his daughters, Elodie and Aurore, have come aboard to continue the tradition. Elodie manages the brand while the younger Aurore oversees winemaking and vineyard work. Indeed, a family-oriented estate.
For their Brut Rosé “Tradition,” the Chapuys utilize their top-notch Chardonnay from Côte des Blancs’ Grand Cru village of Oger (around 65% for this cuvée) and the remaining Pinot Noir comes from Coteaux Sud d’Épernay—a small sub-region region wedged between the northwest section of Côte des Blancs and the start of Vallée de la Marne. Though they don’t yet have certifications, they are farming sustainably and proactively working towards organic viticulture. In the winery, the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are vinified separately until they are blended prior to the secondary fermentation. After two years of aging on lees, the wine is disgorged and a small percentage of still Pinot Noir is blended in to achieve color and style.
What’s first apparent is Chapuy’s brilliant salmon color in the crystal clear bottle (if cellaring, be sure to stow in a dark place). In the glass, a soft roseate shade emerges with orange hues reflecting off the glass. It’s a gorgeous wine to look at, let alone smell and taste: The nose bursts forth with notes of ripe raspberry, tangerine peel, citrus blossoms, red and white cherry, wild strawberry, pomegranate seeds, redcurrant, crushed chalk, and a lingering presence of fresh herbs. The medium-plus-bodied palate is soft with building acidity and a massive lift of mineral freshness accentuates the finish. It would shine as an apéritif; as a deep and savory first-course dinner pairing; or as a standalone anywhere beneath the sun. I highly recommend opening now (though it will easily develop over the next 5-7 years) and consuming around 50 degrees in all-purpose stems. As you know, a good rosé will pair with just about anything, but if you’re looking for something to spice up your afternoon, try out the attached prawn and chive dumpling recipe and you’ll be turning heads—as will the Champagne. Cheers!