Let’s get right to the meat of today’s terrific Bordeaux discovery: close to decade of age, a terrific and highly rated vintage, and an address that is smack dab in the middle of some of the most expensive and desired real estate in the entire wine world. Indeed, it’s nearly impossible not to name drop a few Châteaux, since that really is a big part of the story. Haut de La Bécade is a relatively small estate that has been owned by the same family for almost a century, and it just happens to be sandwiched between Château Lynch-Bages and Château Latour (perhaps you’ve heard of them?). This is terroir of the very highest pedigree, and the wine is pure Pauillac: richly complex and powerfully built, with a long, silky smooth finish. How this little gem has remained entirely under the radar, given its hallowed place on the map, is a complete mystery to me. But it’s good news for everyone, because the value proposition here is unbeatable. Grab as much as you can!
With Château Haut de la Bécade, it is all about location–this property sits smack dab in the middle of 7 classified growths. Look north you'll see Château Lynch Bages, Château Mouton Rothschild, Château d'Armailhac, and Château Pontet Canet...look South and you'll see Château Pichon Baron, Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, and Château Latour.......all within about a 2-mile radius! Again, I have no idea how one small estate has maintained its independence and value given the multi-national corporate consolidation–and accompanying soaring prices–that surround it. To be sure, missing out on the 1855 Growth Classification certainly diminished its market value, but that was over one hundred and fifty years ago! I would understand if this wine was half or even one third the price of its neighbors, but instead it is one tenth or less. Now that is truly mind blowing.
The Rainaud family, who purchased the property in 1933, have been excellent stewards, and their wines reflect both the storied history of their neighborhood and its exalted terroir. The entire estate has just 7 hectares of vineyards, which in some places makes you a small to medium sized property, but in Bordeaux that is miniscule. Consider that Latour, next door, has a total of 78 acres of vines. In similar cases, families like the Rainauds would have sold their extremely valuable property long ago, but somehow they continue on making excellent, honest, and authentic Pauillac surrounded by giants.
Unsurprisingly, winemaking at Bécade is very traditional. The hand harvested Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc is fermented in tanks for about three weeks before racking into new and used French oak barriques for 18-20 months. A light, natural filtration is used before bottling. Serve this deep, ruby red beauty as you would its most prestigious Pauillac neighbors: at cellar temperature in large, Bordeaux stems after decanting for about an hour. The classic notes of rich cassis, crushed blackberries, plum skin, cigar box, leather, iodine, green peppercorn, and a tell-tale underlay of wet, gravelly rocks, are all present and accounted for. The tannins are still present, but are beginning to soften, and the silky, suave palate culminates in a long, smooth, and mineral laden finish. Serve with your choice of grilled or roasted protein, but personally I think a classic steak au poivre would be ideal. This sneaky great Pauillac will continue to improve for another decade, but it’s so delicious now you’ll need a big stash on hand if you want to keep a few for the long haul.
