Remelluri is in Rioja Alta, arguably the most important sub-region in the Rioja DO. The vineyards of Remelluri are scattered across the Sierra de Toloño mountains, in a pocket of land that sees its fair share of rainfall. The influence of the Atlantic Ocean allows lower temperatures than neighboring regions, and hot days are balanced by cool nights to keep grapes from becoming overripe. Rioja Alta, as its name suggests, boasts the highest-altitude vineyards in Rioja, resulting in freshness, acidity and lower alcohol levels. Tempranillo is the major player, but Garnacha Tinto, Graciano and Viura thrive here as well. 

The Remelluri family has been producing wines since 1967, and since the beginning has been devoted to recovering and restoring old vineyards on the estate. Started by Telmo’s father as more of a hobby, the wines of Remelluri have evolved into some of the most esteemed examples of Rioja on the market. Lindes de Remelluri is a fairly recent project of Telmo’s, showcasing grapes grown by local farmers (under Telmo’s supervision) in the neighboring towns of Labastida and San Vicente. The idea is to make wines that highlight the nuances of each village, a methodology we find in regions like Burgundy, and a respect for terruño Telmo would like to see more of in Rioja. The “San Vicente” bottling is sourced from vineyards from eight growers in and around San Vicente—a marginally hotter, drier climate than both Labastida and Remelluri and known for darker, more concentrated wines from clay and limestone soils. Altitudes here are not insignificant (about 500 meters), and vines are farmed organically, with an average age of about 40 years.

The 2011 Lindes de Remelluri “Viñedos des San Vicente” is driven by Tempranillo, but incorporates small amounts of Graciano and Garnacha as well. It is aged for ten months in French oak barrels, and is mouth coating and full-bodied, with moderate acidity. In the glass it’s an opaque purple-ruby with crimson highlights at the rim (a function of age), with an explosive nose of ripe black plum, black currant, licorice, violets, dark chocolate, red tobacco leaf, potting soil, and the slightest hint of vanilla bean from the well-integrated oak. Viscous and supple, it is framed by dusty tannins and finishes with a beguiling note of wintry spice (nutmeg, mace, etc). This is a delicious wine to drink now, needing only about a half-hour in a decanter to reveal its considerable charms. Serve it around 60 degrees (which will diminish the heat of alcohol) in Bordeaux stems, alongside something that can stand up to its rustic intensity—for a classic, try this spiced lamb and vegetable recipe. This is a bold and beautiful red that would also stand nicely on its own, with a palate-coating texture and earthy savor perfect for slow, thoughtful sipping. Enjoy!