We long ago reached the point when the Mâcon region of Burgundy ceased to be a detour and became a destination. This has been proved time and again in our tastings (and subsequent offers), and perhaps never more convincingly than in today’s case. The level of energy and refinement in this sub-$30 Mâcon-Verzé is, on the one hand, revelatory, in that seasoned Burgundy drinkers might be surprised by it. On the other hand, why wouldn’t we expect excellence from a terroir like Verzé? 

No less an eminence than Domaine Leflaive recognized the potential of this limestone-rich village long ago—and charges a heck of a lot more for their versions—so perhaps the only question left is, how is this 2020 from Terres Secrètes so inexpensive? Well, for one thing, it’s produced by an innovative cooperative that dates to the 1950s, one that counts some of the Mâcon’s most seasoned growers among its member-partners. That means having access to some of the best old-vine fruit to be found. Second, and no less important, is that Mâcon-Verzé is one of the more prestigious village-specific appellations in southern Burgundy. There’s no reason not to expect excellence, and “Croix Jarrier” delivers. Do yourself a huge favor and load up! 

It wasn’t so long ago that the mention of the Mâcon and a cooperative winery in the same sentence would turn off most serious Burg-o-philes. But we’ve all got to get with the times. Verzé occupies a broad valley in the northern Mâconnais, with vineyards perched on a long, west-facing slope, an exposure that allows not only for full-flavored expressions of Chardonnay but some of the region’s best Gamay. Today’s bottling from Terres Secrètes (“secret lands”) comes from a vineyard parcel in Verzé called “Croix Jarrier” which climbs to about 300 meters of altitude and contains a substantial concentration of white, chalky limestone. Vine age ranges from 20-40 years, which is typical of the growers within the Terres Secrètes stable.

Known officially as the Cave des Vignerons des Terres Secretes, the cooperative includes vineyard holdings in all the big-name appellations of the Mâcon, including Verzé, Vergisson, Saint-Véran, and Viré-Clessé. The wine cellar is right in the heart of the action, in the shadow of the landmark “rock” of Vergisson—a huge limestone massif that looms over the vineyards. Working closely with its member-growers, the co-op has stayed on the cutting edge of sustainable farming practices, obtaining a certification from a body called “Vignerons Engagés” (“committed winegrowers”), whose multi-faceted charter calls for the reduction of chemical inputs, increasing biodiversity, and reducing the local wine industry’s carbon footprint.

Fruit for today’s 2020 was hand-harvested and fermented and aged in stainless steel. The first thing that must be said about it is that you don’t miss the oak one bit: It has plenty of texture without it, but it is also more angular and lifted than many of the plump, even tropical styles of Mâcon Chardonnay we’ve been encountering lately. The chalky, mineral edge and high-toned aromatics wouldn’t be at all out of place in Puligny-Montrachet, which was the big takeaway for us: this is a wine of real tension and refinement. It’s ready to enjoy over the next 1-2 years and would be great with some broiled oysters, seared scallops, or most other fruits de mer. Check out the “wintry” recipe attached and start pulling corks! Enjoy!