This is one of those rare Daiginjo bottlings that put toji Hiro Inoue on the global map a dozen years ago. It’s also one of those beautiful, visually striking blue bottles that will turn heads at swanky Japanese restaurants in SF, LA, and NY—while setting the buyer back $200. Today, thanks to a special deal with the boutique importer, it’s all yours for $90, and I doubt you’ll find it retailing anywhere else. No more than two bottles per person.
Why is it twice the price of Sawahime’s “Tokubetsu” Honjozo? There are a few key differences. First and foremost, Junmai Daiginjo is unquestionably the highest level of quality—consider it the “Grand Cru” of sake—where 50% of the rice grain must be polished. Today’s “Platinum” bottling has 60% removed. Second, the specific rice used is Yumesasara, a rarely encountered varietal native to Tochigi, Hiro’s local prefecture. And third, this eschews the addition of brewer’s alcohol.
While this is technically a touch sweeter than the “Tokubetsu” on offer, one should not mistake this for a sweet libation. This is a full-bodied, sophisticated sake with an incredibly complex and creamy palate. Intoxicating aromas of lychee and peach come racing out of the gates followed by honeydew, cucumber, banana candy, and creamy apricot. The mid-palate is powerful yet nuanced, rich yet poised, and the finish stretches for 20+ seconds with a cooling licorice-pine combination. It’s to be enjoyed between 45-65 degrees in all-purpose stems or traditional ceramic ochoko. I suggest starting at 45 degrees and tasting frequently as it warms up to 65, then finding out which temperature best suits your palate. Cheers!