We’re extra excited today. As I write this, a small library release of Evesham’s storied 2016 “Le Puits Sec” is being prepared in Oregon just for us. It’s no secret that we’re suckers for perfumed and properly aged Pinots, but that excitement doubles when they hail from Eola-Amity Hills’ volcanic basalt soils and triples when they’re handcrafted by Evesham Wood. Put another way, today’s 2016 Pinot Noir is an exemplary case study on this hallowed terroir and a profound persuasion piece for those still embroiled in the Willamette vs. Burgundy argument.
What’s more, “Le Puits Sec” exists at the peak of Evesham’s stellar lineup: It comes from their organic, dry-farmed, own-rooted vineyard—located right outside the front door—and each vintage ages slowly in fine-grained French oak. If you’re a Burgundy aficionado, pay close attention! This is an aged Pinot of exceptional purity, filigreed terroir expression, and mesmerizing elegance that’s tantamount to the ludicrously priced legends of Côte de Nuits. It’ll age right alongside them, too, as this 2016 re-release is already beginning to prove. Because everyone around here goes wild for this darling label, we’re increasing the max purchase to 12 bottles today. Best of luck, they never survive long!
NOTE: Evesham will be shipping us this special library release in the first week of January.
This should come as no surprise to those of you who’ve enjoyed the many excellent wines we’ve offered from Evesham Wood (and Haden Fig, for that matter). Erin Nuccio’s rapid rise through the wine ranks has been documented here: He started his career in wine at a retail shop in Washington, DC; moved west with his wife to attend enology school and apprentice at wineries; then landed a job with Evesham Wood founder Russ Raney, whose vineyard, first planted in 1986, was (and is) a model of sustainability—it was certified organic way back in 2000. Over the years, Nuccio became winemaker at Evesham Wood while also launching Haden Fig (a SommSelect’s subscriber favorite), and in 2010, Nuccio and his wife, Jordan, purchased Evesham Wood outright. In addition to bottling wines from Evesham Wood’s jewel-box estate vineyard, “Le Puits Sec” (“The Dry Well”), Nuccio continues the Raney tradition of crafting single-vineyard bottlings from sustainably farmed sites across the Willamette Valley.
Russ and Mary Raney first cultivated the treasured Le Puits Sec vineyard in the Eola-Amity Hills back in 1986. The complex soils, rich in volcanic basalt, coupled with the east-facing slopes of 300-plus-feet elevation of this advantageously situated vineyard, offer the perfect site for world-class Pinot Noir. Russ and Mary embraced organic viticulture early on along with the traditional, minimal-intervention techniques of Burgundy. They do not irrigate their prized “old vines;” instead they dry farm in an effort to allow their vines to dig deep in the earth for nutrients which further concentrates the fruit.
Back in 2010, Russ and Mary finally retired and sold their estate to Erin and Jordan Nuccio, who have soaked up their knowledge like a sponge and worked to maintain the Raney’s classic way of doing things through organic viticulture and low intervention. With the passion and dedication of their predecessors to fuel them, Erin and Jordan strive to maintain the consistency of quality by allowing the vineyard to speak for itself. Furthermore, 2016 was a pitch-perfect growing year that Wine Spectator summarized in one headline: “Oregon Strikes Gold with 2016 Pinot Noirs.” It’s unequivocally true, and with Erin Nuccio at the winemaking helm, this back-vintage release becomes one of the smartest ways to spend your wine buck. In the cellar, Erin employed routine punch-downs and pump-overs during fermentation, and the resulting wine aged for 18 months in French oak (15% new).
Evesham Wood’s 2016 “Le Puits Sec” reveals a dense ruby core moving out to a distinguished magenta-pink rim. You can immediately sense the wine’s power and elegance, but to fully understand the sheer aromatics at play here, it needs about 30 minutes of air. This bursts forth with muddled cherries, wild strawberries, damp raspberries, blood orange blossoms, rose petals and stems, violets, forest floor, and baking spices, alongside other classic Burgundian notes of goji berry, tea leaf, wet moss, and crushed stones. This is neither light nor heavy, but there is a wonderful concentration to the fruit that accompanies the medium-bodied palate. It’s perfectly balanced with svelte tannins that push their way to the fore alongside refreshing bursts of acidity. It culminates with textural earthiness and light touches of wild berries and herbs. Simply stated, it’s a master class on high-end Oregon Pinot and a sure-fire alternative to the pricey Premier Crus of Côte de Nuits. Serve in large Burgundy stems just above cellar temperature and take your time enjoying a bottle. As for your remainders? Hide them away in a dark, cool place and they’ll provide you with another 5-10 years of perfect drinking. Match it alongside the attached balsamic cherry-glazed salmon recipe if you’re looking for smiles across the board.