Presenting this bottle to those in the know is the equivalent of a secret handshake or password to Manhattan’s most exclusive club, yet it feels unfair to call today’s special offer a cult wine. Philip Togni wouldn’t want that kind of attention. Still, you can’t deny that when someone orders this label off a wine list or breaks it out at a dinner party, it always receives a knowing nod from true connoisseurs. That’s just what the grand old man/legend of Spring Mountain brings to the table.
He trained under France’s most influential 20th-century wine figure, Émile Peynaud. He crafted the ’56 vintage at iconic Second Growth Château Lascombes. He’s made glorious wines at Chappellet, Mayacamas, Inglenook, and Chalone. For decades, his 1969 Chappellet has routinely been considered the greatest Cabernet in US history. And his eponymous label on offer today once outclassed Latour, Haut-Brion, Margaux, and Mouton in a recreation of The Judgment of Paris. His humility and hermetic lifestyle aside, Togni is the man, and his limited wines would demand endless waitlists and $500+ if he followed the Cult Cab formula. But this nonagenarian would never dream of it, and we’re deeply thankful: His 2019 Spring Mountain release is among the most soulful, cellar-worthy, and perfectly balanced Cabernets in Napa Valley…America…the entire world. Up to six bottles per person.
Wine classicists would argue that Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon has gotten too big, too sweet, too culty, and too expensive. They’ll pull out their ’70s- and ’80s-era Cabs from Beaulieu, or Mondavi, or Mayacamas, and grouse that “they don’t make ‘em like they used to.” And while they may have a point, let’s not forget that there are still standard-bearers out there like ninety-something Philip Togni, whose wines are some of Napa Valley’s most enduring classics. They are “cornerstone” wines—essential, long-lived collectibles for anyone with a quality cellar.
Somewhat hidden away up on Spring Mountain, with none of the château-like trappings of some of its Napa neighbors, the Togni operation has never really grown from its original size. This was by design: Their 10 acres of hillside vines are meticulously tended by hand each year by the Tognis themselves (they live right there on the property) and a small crew. This place is a model of consistency and small-scale perfectionism. These days, it’s Philip’s daughter, Lisa, who directs this farmstead operation, and she’s a faithful adherent to the soil-driven, aromatic, powerful-yet-balanced style the estate is celebrated for.
And when you consider the incredible body of work behind it, it’s hard to believe that Togni’s “first” wine is still so reasonably priced relative to Napa’s newer, flashier breed: When the first Togni Cabernet was released in 1983, Philip already had more than 20 California vintages under his belt. British-born and French-trained by legendary Emile Peynaud, Togni worked in Bordeaux (for another legend, Alexis Lichine) before relocating to California in 1958. He later helped plant Mayacamas Vineyards on Mount Veeder, then made acclaimed wines at places like Chappellet and Chalone before striking out on his own. In a 2014 interview with Jon Bonné, he remarked on this longevity: “There are two kinds of people who run wineries here. The guys who worked their way up, and the ones who parachuted in with a small fortune. The thing about the new guys is that they need to understand the value of a track record.”
If you’re looking for a high-octane, lavishly oaked blockbuster, these wines aren’t for you. In classic Bordeaux fashion, the Tognis describe their wines in terms of how the vineyards are planted, rather than producing a new “tech sheet” each vintage. Yes, the label says “Cabernet Sauvignon,” but of course very few ‘varietal’ wines are actually 100% of the stated variety. Currently, the Togni vineyard composition is largely Cabernet Sauvignon with small amounts of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot. Vines range from 23-35 years old. Togni’s flagship Cabernet spent 20 months aging in French oak barrels, 40% new, and although his wines have rarely crossed the 14% threshold, a keen eye will notice there is no alcohol listed. That’s because they are designated as “table wine,” a generic category that isn’t required to state ABV.
