Like so many of Italy’s native grape varieties, there’s no clear consensus on the origins of Ruché, a specialty of the Monferrato region of Piedmont. But let’s not dwell on where it came from and just be glad it’s here—although, as Italian wine lovers know, there isn’t much of it to go around.
As is often the case on Italian wine labels, the “del” or “di” (meaning “of,” or “from”) is a tipoff: “Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato” is indeed the Ruchè variety grown in (and around) the village of Castagnole Monferrato, in Piedmont’s Asti province. Beyond this one province, in fact, you’re not likely to find any Ruchè (although it has won the favor of American Italophile winemakers like Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon). Known especially for its assertively floral aromatic profile, it’s difficult to compare Ruchè to anything more familiar: there are some nods to Piedmont’s own Nebbiolo, to Burgundy’s Gamay, to the Jura’s Poulsard…but really, there’s nothing else like it!
The Crotin estate (“crotin” is a dialect word for “small cellar) is an impeccably run, organically farmed property helmed by brothers Federico, Marcello, and Corrado Russo, with expert assistance from itinerant consulting enologist Cristiano Garella. Their 8.5 hectares of vines, cellar, and agriturismo are in the village of Maretto, in the heart of the Monferrato Hills east of Asti. The soils here are a multi-layered mix of marine sediments dominated by clay, sand, and limestone, and while Barbera may be the region’s red-wine headliner, Ruchè is a huge source of local pride.
The Russos ferment and age their Ruchè in stainless steel only, producing a juicy, quaffable red with exotic aromas of roses, violets, and dark, concentrated woodland berries. Lots of plush fruit is underpinned by a brambly underbrush note and hints of green tobacco. The tannins are soft but the acidity is nice and brisk, keeping all the ripe berry fruit lifted and tangy on the palate. Serve this cool (55-60 degrees) in Burgundy stems with herb-crusted lamb chops or some Piedmontese-style braised beef. It’s straightforward and pleasurable, yet unforgettable, too. Enjoy!
