The name Grignolino is derived from a Piedmontese dialect word for “pip,” or “seed,” as it is a variety with lots of seeds, giving it an extra jolt of tannin. At the same time, Grignolino is thin-skinned and not typically rich in color pigmentation or extract, so it has tended to take a back seat to the more deeply hued, richly fruited Barbera. But its considerable charms—bright, floral aromatics, refreshing tart strawberry fruit—have not gone unnoticed. Some subscribers may recall that Grignolino dominated the first Napa vineyard Joe Heitz purchased in the early 1960s (Heitz Cellars still makes sought-after Grignolino red and rosé). Generally speaking, however, Grignolino has not strayed far from home—like so many native Italian grapes, it’s not just region-specific but province-specific, and in its home region of Monferrato, it’s as prized as any of Piedmont’s “noble” varieties.
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The Crotin estate (“crotin” is a dialect word for “small cellar) is an impeccably run, organically farmed property helmed by brothers Federico, Marcello, and Corrado Russo, with expert assistance from itinerant consulting enologist Cristiano Garella. Their 8.5 hectares of vines, cellar, and agriturismo are in the village of Maretto, in the heart of the Monferrato Hills east of Asti. The soils here are a multi-layered mix of marine sediments dominated by clay, sand, and limestone, and while Barbera may be the region’s red-wine headliner, Grignolino preceded it in the area as a grape and wine of note.
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Fermented and aged in stainless steel, this is a one-stop master class in a rare, hyper-local grape variety. It’s a light garnet red in the glass, with perfumed aromas of wild strawberry, cranberry, maraschino cherry, raspberries, rose petals, white pepper, and a hint of leather. It is light-bodied and mouthwateringly fresh. Serve it on the cooler side (55-60 degrees) in Burgundy stems to highlight its bright fruit and refreshment above all else. This will make a perfect burger wine—not only would it be at home in your cooler next to the beers and sodas, it has enough spice, savor, and backbone to partner with a healthy slab of ground beef. Cheers!
