António Bernardino Paulo da Silva continues the work of his father and grandfather, both of whom were named Antonio Bernardino da Silva Chitas. Over the estate’s long history, its wines have been marketed under many brand names, including Colares Chitas; Casal da Azenha; Carunchosa; Ribamar; and Paulo da Silva Garrafeiras. In the early years, the main export market for the wines was Brazil, but lately, shipments to the US have increased—although, with only about 20 hectares of vines in production in the entire Colares DO, and even less in some of the surrounding appellations, that’s not much wine to go around. This 2015 carries a “Vinho Regional Lisboa” indication on the label, as it is sourced from vineyards not just in Colares but Torres Vedras and Lourinha along the Atlantic coast. Paulo da Silva, who still suits up and goes to work every day at 93, is one of the few holdouts still working with the traditional varieties—and grape-growers—of the area. He is a lifeline for many small farmers who work with him exclusively under long-term contracts.

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When you locate Colares on a map, you’ll see the area just out ever-so-slightly into the 

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