Even if you jump at every chance to go deep on our regular rotation of Grand Cru Champagne all-stars—Déthune, Egly-Ouriet, Clouet, Vesselle—Roger Brun is probably a new name to you. That’s because their domestic exports amount to a mere trickle, and anyone who wants to enjoy these wines without personally visiting the century-old Brun caves must be prepared to jostle for an allocation. Upon tasting their seamless, decadent, and richly-fruited Grand Cru Aÿ “Brut Réserve,” we rolled up our sleeves.
Today’s powerful and opulent bottling is a masterclass in the marvel of Pinot-based Champagne, marrying lavish orchard and berry fruits to incisive freshness. And while the family’s wines are largely unknown to even the most diehard collectors, their fruit contracts certainly aren’t: Brun’s Grand Cru holdings are crucial blending components at Charles Heidsieck, Perrier-Jouet, and even Krug! With this bottle, Brun established themselves in our glowing constellation of Champagne greats. We believe you’ll think the same.
Peter Liem, America’s most accomplished writer on Champagne, writes, “If Äy were in Burgundy, it’d be Vosne-Romanée.” Along with Bouzy and Ambonnay, this is home to the grandest Pinot Noir in all of Champagne. Ninety percent of Äy vineyards are planted to Pinot, and their full southern exposure, combined with chalky limestone soils, produce some of the most powerful yet refined fruit in the region. It’s the most historically esteemed of any village in Champagne, too, with a reputation for producing stunningly beautiful Pinot established long before the region was producing sparkling wine. For centuries, popes and kings poured Äy for their guests, and today it serves as the base for some of the most famous and expensive bottlings in Champagne, like Roederer’s Cristal Rosé.
Äy is, then, the perfect home for a family enterprise like the Brun’s. Current proprietor Philippe is a fanatic for Pinot, going so far as to say “a Champagne always needs Pinot Noir.” Philippe’s great-grandfather Leon Brun began the family estate in 1921 after learning the craft of sparkling production at Moët & Chandon. Philippe came to head the winery in 1999 once he’d had an accomplished career as an engineer. He’s a man of deep conviction and vision, unconcerned with the whims of fashion or fad. Despite a turn toward brisker, brighter styles across the region, Philippe remains committed to putting the powerful vinous intensity of Äy’s terroirs on full display. He even bottles some “rosé” Champagnes after multi-day macerations that look more like red Burgundy than pink bubbles. These are no apéritif but full-bore, luscious bottlings to cook a meal around.
The Grand Cru Aÿ Brut Réserve is 85% Pinot Noir and 15% Chardonnay with a third of the blend made up of a decades-old perpetual reserve. After completing both alcoholic and malolactic in stainless steel tanks, it aged no less than 36 months on lees before disgorgement and a generous 10-gram dosage. Serve it as you would a great white: around 50 degrees, in all-purpose stems. It pours a luminous golden yellow with silver-green highlights and a fine mousse. The nose leaps forth with enveloping notes of bruised apricot, ripe raspberry, creamed apple, white flowers, dried lemon zest, freshly-baked brioche, hazelnut, and baker’s yeast. It’s a mouth-coating marvel on the palate, broadly textured and creamy, leaning into red and yellow fruit and toasty warmth before snapping to a resounding finish with a wash of mouthwatering acidity. Sure, it could be had on its own pre-dinner or as a celebratory sip, but this is true gustatory Champagne that’ll really strut its stuff next to a lovingly prepared meal. Just grab whatever you can—up to six bottles—because this might be the last time you see it for a while...unless you plan on visiting Brun in person!
