We ask the same question of every wine we offer on SommSelect: What makes it special? With tiny-production ‘grower’ Champagnes like Lebeau-Batiste, the answer is relatively obvious. People often forget just how huge the Champagne region is, how much wine some of the big-name producers make each year, and how much of that vast vineyard expanse is still being farmed “conventionally.” None of this applies to Lebeau-Batiste.

Today’s “Brut Tradition” is the limited, 800-case result of one family’s devotion to their small trove of organically farmed vines. So yes, it’s special, and given that it aged more than 30 months on lees and incorporates 20% reserve wine, it’s especially delicious and layered too. Faced with a choice between this artisanal sparkler versus a similarly priced wine from an industrial-scale “house,” which way would you go? Nevermind, don’t answer that—we already know. This is Lebeau-Batiste’s first appearance in the US market, and they’re ready for their close-up!

The estate, created by Eric Lebeau and Anne-Marie Batiste from family-heirloom vineyard holdings, is today run by their chef du cave (winemaker) son, Florent. They are headquartered in the village of Chavot-Courcourt, just south of Épernay, right where the Vallée de la Marne gives way to the Côte des Blancs. The cépage (blend) of the “Brut Tradition” roughly approximates the mix of grape varieties in their six hectares of vineyards: 60% Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Noir. The Lebeaus’ sustainable farming practices have been recognized with a Haut Valeur Environnementale (High Environmental Value) certification from France’s Ministry of Agriculture, as the family continues its conversion to full-scale organic and biodynamic viticulture.

We’re talking custom-crafted, blue-chip Champagne here: It ages for 30+ months on its lees before disgorgement and receives a dosage of eight grams/liter before bottling. It has a silky feel, with a nice layered texture but lots of mouth-watering tanginess on the finish. In the glass, it displays a star-bright straw-gold core with slight coppery highlights, with high-toned aromas of pink lady apple, quince, white cherry, citrus peel, crusty bread, chopped hazelnuts, ginger, and wet stones. It is medium-bodied, with a fine bead and a relatively soft attack. There’s no shortage of freshness, of course, but the wine is harmonious rather than sharp. Serve it at 45-50 degrees in flared flutes or all-purpose white wine stems with a showpiece appetizer like the attached. It is guaranteed to impress. Enjoy!