If you desire mystique, tradition, and exclusivity with your Hermitage, here it is. Forgot being lucky enough to emerge with a parcel of JMB Sorrel’s scarcely seen “Le Vignon” rouge—we’re fortunate to know that it even exists in the first place! For several generations, this hermetic Northern Rhône estate has quietly produced a single Hermitage Rouge from one hectare of old, hand-farmed, horse-plowed vines. In a great year, only a few hundred cases are produced, and most never touch American soil.
After finally tracking down a small parcel of Sorrel’s 2018, we asked if a sample could be spared. The response? “Yes, but only if you like real Syrah.” I felt personally attacked. “Real Syrah” in this instance refers to a terroir-driven Hermitage that needs ample time/air before delivering a vast array of perfume and nuance. So, we glugged it into a decanter, forgot about it for a couple of hours, and then licked our chops for the savory firework show. This rare cuvée, enhanced by the generosity and polish of 2018, is a brooding, powerfully mineral Syrah that pays tribute to all of Hermitage’s hallmark flavors: cassis, smoke, black cherry, violet, bacon fat, crushed black rock. Sound enticing? It’s undoubtedly one of the more exciting collectibles we’ve procured this year. We can offer up to six bottles until our tiny parcel disappears.
As one drives north through the Rhône valley toward Burgundy, the hill of Hermitage dominates the horizon. This granite protrusion looms over the village of Tain and is renowned for producing the world’s most substantially deep, timeless, cellar-worthy Syrah. The Sorrel family is no stranger to this fabled hillside. Back in the late 1800s, Félix Alexandre Sorrel purchased his very first parcel of vines in the “Bessards” lieu-dit, a name that should sound familiar to SommSelecters. The coveted section of “Bessards” generally serves as the backbone of Jean-Loius Chave’s historic $350 “L’Hermitage” bottling!
Since 1985, Sorrel brothers Jean Michel, Jacques, and Bruno have overseen this tiny domaine, tending to three parcels (totaling one hectare) within “Les Plantiers,” “Les Greffieux,” and the aforementioned “Les Bessards” which holds a section of century-old vines. In fact, their youngest Hermitage Rouge vines are well over 50 years of age! Farming is carried out sustainably, a plowhorse is used throughout the season, and harvest is strictly manual. In the cellar, all but 5% of the grapes are de-stemmed and a natural fermentation occurs in stainless steel vats. Upon completion, the wines are transferred into well-used French oak barrels for 24 months. The brothers taste the wine each week to monitor quality and track its evolution. It is bottled without filtration.
As mentioned, decant this for 1-2 hours so the wine can slowly blossom while blowing off reduction. In a Bordeaux stem, a swarthy purple core with deep ruby hues is revealed and intoxicating aromas fire out with gusto. You'll uncover ripe black cherry, cassis, black raspberry liqueur, and cold blue plum alongside candied violet, potting soil, scorched rock, bacon fat, exotic spice, struck flint, and damp herbs. Jeb Dunnuck geeked out over this as well, calling it a “truly brilliant Hermitage” that’s “well worth seeking out” and “already impossible to resist.” Because of the generous 2018 vintage, I don’t consider it a crime to consume a bottle under five years old. Right now, it’s a haunting, earthy beauty wrapped in a silky blue- and black-fruited frame. It’s so complex, perfumed, and seamless, you’ll feel compelled to pause and reflect after every sip. Enjoy your bottles slowly, now and over the next 10-15 years.
