We’ll admit, the Languedoc-Roussillon doesn’t get much air time here at SommSelect. There’s plenty of good wine there, to be sure; but for a crew whose palates lean heavily toward the complexity and precision of Burgundy or Bordeaux, little Languedoc juice strikes us as truly special. Well, “special” is just one of the many adjectives I’d throw at Les Clos Perdus’ Corbières “Prioundo,” alongside “elegant,” “pure,” and “downright soul-stirring.” This Grenache/Cinsault blend is our new benchmark for the region, combining power and precision into a lifted explosion of garrigue and limestone minerality.
Clos Perdus may be new to us, but I’d happily pour this alongside southern French legends like Daumas Gassac and Château Simone. It positively shimmers with energy, and at almost seven years of age, it’s ready to be popped and poured for immediate enjoyment. And while the poise on display here might not be very Languedoc-like, the friendly price tag certainly is. The only downside to it is that there’s painfully little to go around. You’ll want to go deep here, in case you know any Languedoc doubters who need convincing!
Corbières may not be in the regular rotation of most sommeliers, but that should change. It’s a land of wildly diverse soil types, expositions, varieties, and vine ages. Stretching from Narbonne in its northeast to the Pyrenees in its south, the steep, rocky slopes of the best sites bake in Meditteranean sun while buffeted by powerful winds. Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, and a host of other Southern French varieties are perfectly at home here. Unfortunately, the region remains dominated by cooperatives, and they’ve largely abandoned the best vineyards in Corbières because they’re too isolated, too low-yielding, too hard to work.
Enter Les Clos Perdus. The name literally translates to “the lost vineyards,” and reclaiming these forgotten yet great plots is exactly what friends Paul Old and Hugo Stewart aim to do. The two began in 2003, seeking out the most challenging and rewarding vineyards in the region. Ancient bush vines unreachable by machine, squeaking out a measly ton and a half per acre? Exactly what the two are looking for. They farm every parcel they work organically and biodynamically, certified for over 15 years. In their tiny garage-cum-cellar, they turn this densely concentrated fruit into true artisanal reminders of this region’s distinction. No new oak in sight, no commercial yeasts or other winemaking additives. Just pure, unadulterated Corbières. “Prioundo” comes from three adjacent, walled parcels that combine for a meager total of 1.5 hectares. A blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Cinsault, the two varieties fermented (20% whole cluster) and aged in stainless steel for maximum freshness. Just 320 cases were produced.
I recommend treating “Prioundo” as you would red Burgundy to highlight its shocking elegance, serving it with a slight chill in Burgundy bowls. In the glass, it has a deep ruby core with purple hints. The nose is crammed full of preserved raspberries, crushed blackberries, red cherry pit, plum skin, fresh and dried herbs, blood orange, hot rocks, and dried violet. It’s full-bore and fleshy on the palate, the obvious result of its warm climate, but it contains an almost unbelievable sense of freshness and verve. It finishes with a deep, stony minerality lifted by a wash of vivacious acid and rounded tannin. It’s profoundly complex yet at the same time just begs to be drunk with abandon. Our favorite combination! But note that this is likely the last of this vintage we’ll see stateside, so there’s not much to go around. Act fast!
