“Valtuille” demonstrates why Bierzo wines are (1) enjoying a renaissance and (2) an unavoidable siren call for sommeliers. They’re refreshingly affordable; the ancient terroir has been revived by a wave of organic/biodynamic farmers; and the wines have an uncanny ability to produce visceral emotions on par with France’s top appellations. 

César Marquez Pérez grew up learning alongside his rock-star uncle, Raul Pérez. Their extended family, of course, has been a leading light in the Bierzo DO since they founded the iconic Castro Ventosa winery in 1792. César is among the front line of Spanish winemakers who are determined to reconnect with this ancient land and vines through organic farming, site-specificity, and minimal cellar intervention. 

Although comprised predominantly of Mencía, César also leans on small amounts of Alicante Bouschet and other indigenous red and white varieties culled from ancient, field-blended vineyards. For the “Valtuille” bottling, César sources from two vineyards in the village of Valtuille: “El Llano,” an east-facing site at 550 meters of elevation, in sandy (granitic) soils with some clay and rock, and “El Foco,” a west-facing parcel at 500 meters. Grapes from these 80- to 120-year-old vines are hand-harvested and fermented in open-topped wooden vats using ambient yeasts and 100% whole grape clusters. After fermentation, wines are aged in four-year-old 500L barrels for one year. 

Valtuille is part of the “Bierzo Bajo,” although, given these vineyard elevations, there’s nothing especially bajo about it. This wine delivers both concentration and focus, with aromas of ripe blackberry, blackcurrant, Morello cherry, cacao, crushed black rocks, licorice, violets, and cracked black pepper. It is medium to medium-plus in body, with great freshness and moderate alcohol, perfectly balanced and lifted on the palate. The tannins have a firm but fine grip, lending a graphite note to the well-balanced mix of sweet and savory sensations. Give it 30 minutes in a decanter to really blossom if enjoying a bottle now.