In the early 2000s, Montefalco Sagrantino (a.k.a. Sagrantino di Montefalco) was the most in-demand Italian red wine around. I know, because I was there, opening bottle after bottle from producers like Paolo Bea, Antonelli, Arnaldo Caprai, and many others. The Sagrantino grape, native to central Umbria, has some of the highest concentrations of polyphenols of any red grape in the world, and, in response to consumer demand for powerhouse reds, plantings of this once-rare local specialty surged between 2001 and 2009. Among the many wine lovers besotted with this grape and place was Peter Heilbron, a Milan-born food and beverage industry executive who, after decades in the corporate world, chose to opt out and live the life of a vignaiolo.

In 2008, he purchased vineyard land and olive groves in the hamlet of Bevagna, in the heart of the Montefalco DOC, and, in the years since, has created a first-class wine estate focused on sustainability and authenticity. If you’ve never heard of Heilbron’s Tenuta Bellafonte, you couldn’t ask for a more impressive introduction than this 2018 Montefalco Rosso, which combines a small amount of Sagrantino (20%) with Umbria’s other signature red, Sangiovese. In addition to being a remarkable value—it easily eclipses countless “Super-Tuscans” costing twice as much—this wine is a superb example of an “opposites attract” blend, one in which each of the component varieties is given a clear voice. It’s treble from Sangiovese, bass from Sagrantino, and the percentages are perfectly calibrated: It’s rich and voluptuous, but also full of energy and aromatic lift. Don’t stop at one bottle—you’ll be absolutely blown away by the quality-for-price!

Among Italian wine and travel aficionados, Umbria is often referred to as Italy’s “best-kept secret.” It is Tuscany’s immediate neighbor to the east, with a similar wine and food culture: Like Tuscany, Umbria’s premier red grape is Sangiovese, and, like Tuscany, Umbria makes some of Italy’s most piquant olive oils, but it is shortsighted to think of Umbria as “Tuscany Jr.” Umbria is the cuore verde (“green heart”) of Italy, with a culinary identity all its own, and, on the wine side, Umbria has Montefalco—and Sagrantino—as its ace in the hole. 

Heilbron, who for many years ran Heineken’s Italian subsidiary, saw all the untapped potential of Umbria and jumped in with both feet. As he told Wine Spectator in 2018, “[he] quit because there were too many meetings, too many brands, too much delegation and travel.” Inspired by his friend, the late Gianfranco Soldera (of Brunello di Montalcino fame), Heilbron focused intently on organic farming and on non-interventionist practices in the cellar, enlisting the help of consulting winemaker Beppe Caviola and viticulturist Federico Curtaz. The estate now consists of 11 hectares of vines, rooted in the clay/marl soils typical of the region, along with another 30+ hectares of woodlands, olive groves, and orchards. While not officially certified, this property is as sustainable as it gets: no chemical inputs whatsoever are allowed in the vineyards, while the winery is powered by solar energy and a biomass boiler.

“Pomontino,” carrying the “Montefalco Rosso” DOC designation, combines 80% Sangiovese with 20% Sagrantino. Heilbron/Caviola employ a “whole-berry” fermentation on native yeasts and age the wine for 12 months in large Slavonian oak casks, followed by at least six months in bottle before release. The wine melds the almost unparalleled muscle of Sagrantino with the finesse of Sangiovese to create something truly seductive. If you’re a fan of sleek and powerful Super-Tuscans, this is right up your alley—and you couldn’t ask for a better price for a wine of this dimension.

In the glass, the 2018 Pomontino is a medium ruby moving to magenta/pink at the rim (it’s not as inky as most Montefalco Rosso bottlings you’ll encounter), with a floral and seductive nose of blackberries, pomegranate, violets, lavender, licorice, underbrush, and warm spices. Just a click above medium-bodied, it is plush and velvety on the palate, with loads of length and a nice pinch of dusty minerality on the finish. It’s drinking beautifully now, especially after a 30-minute decant, so get some on your table as soon as possible: Serve at 60-65 degrees in Bordeaux stems and dig into your favorite Italian cookbooks for something really “Umbrian.” The region is famous for its Castelluccio lentils, black truffles from Norcia, and is considered the birthplace of porchetta. You’ve got plenty to work with, and this wine delivers! Enjoy!