Organic fruit. Hand harvest. Precious first-press juice. Spontaneous fermentation. No clarification. No dosage. No added sulfites. So what does that leave? Chavost’s “Blanc d’Assemblage,” an exceedingly rare, 100% natural, totally stimulating Champagne that’s criminally underpriced. When an industry friend dropped this bottle off a few weeks back, I’d never seen the label before, and yet, he didn’t attempt a sales pitch—he just said “taste it.” I did, and immediately requested (demanded) the entire allocation. Mark my words: Chavost’s natural champagnes will go down as one of the most exciting finds of the year.
Currently, only a few savants—and those quick enough to secure a few bottles tonight—know their name. That will change. As the world slowly discovers Chavost’s fascinating new lineup of natural champagnes, their prestige, demand, and clout is guaranteed to soar. I say “slowly” because they are only crafted in microscopic amounts that are allocated in an oppressive manner, evidenced by the pittance I emerged with. So, while Chavost keeps handcrafting these as often or seldom as nature permits, I will do my best to scope out, lunge at, and cling to any new allocations that emerge. But right now, I’m just ecstatic to be offering this “Blanc d’Assemblage,” a one-with-nature blend of all three noble grapes that deserves immediate entry into Champagne’s rarefied “zero-zero” category. No more than six bottles per person!
BONUS! Our allocation of Chavost also came with three higher-end bottlings: a 100% Meunier, a 100% Chardonnay, and a mysterious prestige cuvée simply called “Eurêka!” These can be acquired here if you’re quick enough—quantities of each range between 5-20 bottles only.
Chavot-Courcourt, wedged between two Premier Cru villages and knocking on the door of Côte de Blancs’ fabled stretch of Grand Crus, is where you’ll find Champagne Chavost. Although the most famous name emanating from here is Laherte Frères, Chavost has to be hot on their heels with their new lineup of natural Champagnes. Founded just after the Second World War in 1946, today, the estate is run by a young and brilliant wine mind in Fabian Daviaux. His recent vision to create a special range of natural wines was ambitious, to be sure, but one he seemingly conquered with ease. However, it is most certainly not easy to create elite-tier champagnes without intervention which is why so few in the region are brave enough to try—even fewer succeed.
“Blanc d’Assemblage” is a blend of sustainably sourced Chardonnay and Meunier, with a splash of Pinot Noir that fermented on spontaneous, airborne yeasts in stainless steel tanks. Malolactic was also carried out naturally. The resulting wine was transferred into bottle and aged for at least 20 months before disgorgement without a gram of sugar (Brut Nature) or a single dose of sulfur. Again, eschewing the latter is an extremely rare practice in Champagne! This specific lot was fitted with a natural cork in 2021.
In the glass, a frothy, energetic mousse reveals itself before quickly subsiding and returning jaw-droppingly pure aromas of freshly cut green apple, white peach, Anjou pear, Rainier cherry, crushed chalk, and wet rock. This is a tantalizing, deeply refreshing champagne brimming with energy and a crystalline purity that calls to mind the region’s finest biodynamic leaders. And somehow, it is completely devoid of any unwanted “natty” flavors. Here, you’ll only find a delectable core of bright ripe fruit (many may mistake it for a dosage) that sizzles on a mineral-dominated finish. Enjoy now and over the next several years. Cheers!
