Buisson-Battault’s “Vieilles Vignes” is a lush, voluminous, downright moving white Burgundy experience—a wine that instantly reminded us why Meursault, alongside Puligny, is considered the greatest place on earth for Chardonnay. One sip and you understand why even village-level bottlings here easily command triple-digit price tags. The twist here, of course, is that this one does not. Truthfully, there’s no reason it shouldn’t: It is microscopic in production (less than 150 cases each year), hails from two lieu-dit vineyards abutting the village’s most famous sites, and the vines are about to celebrate their 100th birthday.
Here’s the opulent, yet tensile, Meursault we all dream about, the sort of transcendent Burgundy experience that’s quickly becoming inaccessible to anyone without a seven-figure salary. Even we, tireless Burgundy bargain-hunters that we are, were taken aback by the level of pedigree and head-spinning deliciousness crammed into this unassuming bottle. Buisson-Battault easily holds its own against—and just might best—any similar bottling from Meursault’s more famous names. And once you factor in the price differential, you know where we’re spending our precious dollars. Stock up, because we’ve got no doubt this treasure of a bottle won’t remain this attainable much longer!
The vineyard sources for this vieilles vignes (old vines) bottling are about as rarefied as one can get without crossing into the Premier Cru category (and price tier). Two parcels provide the fruit: “Les Pellans” and “Les Malpoiriers.” Pellans sits directly downslope from, and adjacent to, the legendary Premier Cru “Les Charmes,” one of the handful of Meursault Premier Crus that Burgundy insiders consider a genuine rival to many other villages’ Grand Cru sites. The same calcareous clay runs under the vines in both vineyards; Pellans just has a slightly more southern exposition, lending more generosity to the fruit. Les Malpoiriers is positioned catercorner to none other than “Clos de La Barre,” the iconic monopole of Comtes Lafon. Buisson-Battault’s vines in both plots are over 85 years old, the youngest vine having been planted in 1935. Site and vine age combine to produce a wine that completely transcends its village-level designation.
François Buisson joined the family business in 1985, after finishing his viticultural studies. He took over the estate’s daily operations only six years later, and his father, André, continued to work at his side until his death in 2003. He has holdings across Puligny and Pommard, but the heart of his work remains the family heirlooms in the heart of Meursault. François strikes a balance between organic and “conventional” farming, a carefully considered approach that continues in the cellar. His whites never see more than 20% new oak and are fermented spontaneously. He ages his whites for a year in barrel without bâtonnage (lees-stirring) before transferring them to stainless steel for six months. After tasting these profound wines, it came as no surprise to learn that these are the same aging protocols practiced at Lafon and Roulot.
The 2018 Buisson-Battault Meursault Vieilles Vignes pours a crystalline yellow with flecks of gold. Give it a good 20-30 minutes in a decanter if you’re popping it now. After that breathing time, the nose is stone-cold classic Meursault: Granny Smith apple, pear skin, just-ripe white peach, lemon zest, button mushroom, brioche, flaky pastry, raw hazelnuts, whipped crème fraîche, cultured butter, crushed rock minerality, and faint baking spice. The new oak is beautifully integrated, and the explosive nose gives way to an equally lush and luxurious palate. It exudes baked apple, yellow peach, and white flowers; every sip is creamy and deeply textural with incredible depth, a highwire throughline of nervous acidity keeping it all fresh. This is as good as village-level white Burgundy gets, and will leave many a Meursault Premier Cru in the dust. Load up!
